17 hours to Singapur

The 17 hour flight from San Fransisco to Singapor with American Airlines was everything else then comfortable. One of the stewardes had the opinion that 18° C is a very good temperatur for such flight. This might be correct, if you have to run up- and down the hall in the airplane, but if you have to sit in a tiny space then you will start freezing quickly.

I had a row in the front and next to me was a mother with a aproximatley 3 year old girl and a 1 year old toddler. As there was only 3 seats, she kept the toddler half on her legs and half on the seat beween us. She explained to me that the toddler had a cold since a few days. The fewer kept the toddler somewhere between sleep and crying. I had the seat to the hall way and next to me in the middle row, my neighbor was a young men who also looked not really healthy.

Coming from 3 month constantly 30° – 35° C I have no idea how I was so clever not only just to wear a t-shirt, covered with a light jacked – no I also didn’t wear any socks. I asked the stewardess if she maybe can rise the temperature a little, but she reacted embaressed and looked at me like I’m crazy – like it was already 28°C – and not 18°C !! People around me started to jump back into their jackets and it was clearly visible that I was not the only one freezing. As the lucky ones also started to wear their wool heads, I was certain that I was not over reacting.

The sweet little girl with the cold next to me really had a struggle. Once the seat was not really comfortable for her to find some sleep, also we had a lack of pillows and blackets to kept her warm and covered. I handed my blanked to the mother too, hoping that the sweet litttle one find some more comforte then.

As this was not enough, my pre-ordered vegetrarian meal was not available. I decided to buy a sandwitch insetead but as the stewardes broght it to me, it was false too. I walked to the back cabin wishing that I get a chance to change my sandwitch, and then finaly my wished becomes true. The cabin crew in the back cabin was very friendly and helpful. Not only that they exchanged my sandwitch, they also agree to rise the temperatur. Somehow it was a funny picture to see all the passengers, sitting in jackets, wearing wool hats, freezing – and minutes later everybody started to relax and peel themselfs out of their clothes.

The cabin crew from the back also organised a change of seat, so that the mother with the sik child gets some more space and comfort. Of course it was me, who was changing the seat. My new seat neighbours was to my right a young – aproximatly 25 years old- white guy, and to my left a young – aproximatly 25 years old – women. The womens appearance had an indian touch and this coincidence turned out to become a very funny, interesting conversations full of contrast.

The young guy, a christian, started to explain that he is a true beliver in god and that he follows the rules of – no sex upront marriage. I was quite astonished to hear such opinion from such a young guy. As my personal opinion about this rule is not the best one, I started to ask questions how he gets experience in sex and if he not agree that it might be important to understand one selfs needs in that field. He confessed that one way to get an idea is to watch porn. I tried to explain to him that the transported image about women in porn movies are likly to be far away from the real needs of a women and the young lady to my left agreed to me.

The laughter was complete as I asked her – clearly from a diffrent culture – how they manage to solve this question. She replied “we have the kamasutra”. Oh what would I give to see the movie in the head of the young man to my right. It was 30 min. to landing and other people from the rows behind us started to join our conversation. Too sad that our flight was nearly at its end. For sure this was one of the most interesting conversations I ever had on a flight.

Touchdown in Singapur after 17 hours of flight and pleased with the most beautiful airport I have ever seen. Also me didn’t looked too bad. I enjoyed one hour in the lounges around me and then hop hop…up to the next flght. Bangkok ahead

5 hours San Francisco

As my trip from Panama to Thailand needed me to fly through San Francisco, I had the chance to use my 5 hours stop over time for a quick visit to the city. San Francisco welcomed me with a sunny day around 20 degreese. At the airport I ask around how to go to the Golden Gate Bridge the most easy way and the local people recomended to me to use the fast train from the airport and back.

I was a bit surprised as the ticket for the train was quite expensive, around 15€ one way, but decided to go anyway. Maybe two stations after the airport, the people in the train mixed up to, from my point of view, the average people. I have to confess that most people gave me the impression of feeling unhappy, life in poverty, work very hard, don’t eat healthy, life isolated – or in other words – this people does not match my expectations from the everage american people that I had in my head.

The train was quick and as I left the train, I found myself somewhere in the financial district. The architecture was more then impressiv. This view totaly matched my expectations – but still people on the streets seems to be far away from each other. Maybe I come from a too small town, but I’m used to that people look each other into the eyes or face, say hello or smile when you pass them somewhere outside. Here it looked to me that only people who know each other have a connection.

I think thats why I’m so in love with Asia.

I walked down the street into the direction to the harbor. The harbor pictured with a very old and big building what might been constructed in the 1920th was a super beautiful view. Behind the harbor building I saw a big bridge and with my little knowledge about the world, in the first moment I thought this is already the golde gate bridge, but it wasn’t. It was the Bay Bridge but not less impressive. How is it possible to build something like this? How long has it taken and how many people was needed to work on this? Fantastic!

I took 30 pictures and then realised that the remaining time window will be to small as to make it to the Golden Gate Bridge. So I looked around to find a little souvenier for my guest family in Thailand. I remembered that they asked me for books with images and english words. Sadly in the small book shop at the harbor I could’t find anything nice. So I enjoyed some moments to watch the sunset and then head back to the train station. Temperatures was falling quickly and the waiting time for the train becomes very long and cold. As my next flight would be with American Airlines, I was sure that I won’t miss any comfort. 17 hours flight time. The longest distance I ever flew. Destination Singapur and one houre stop over. I worried how I will feel on my arival as my travel time will then already hit 35 hours.

With this thoughts in my head I entered the train and looked forward to get back to the hopefully more warm airport. In the train I had similar impressions from the people who sourounded me. One example quite shocked me a bit. A young women took the seat next to me. She was heaveyly overweighted and from our seat row with 3 seats, she filled two of them. As she constantly looked on her cell phone while sitting next to me, I’d rather could’t do anything else then look on her screen too. She was scrolling down her Instagram stream and all pictures in her stream showed mostly other young women but all of them was slim. As far as I could grab the topics about on the pictures, mostly it was about looks, fashion and make up trends. That was shocking to me, as I feel the huge pressure that last today on the young people, with images that are so useless and far away from reality. What kind of civilisation is this? Where most of us try to be what high gloss magazines want us to be? Where happy moments on Instagram becomes a currency?

The arrival of the train blewed away my thoughts and as I checked in my luggage already after landing, it takes me just a short time until I looked out of the window, ready for the next flight.

Panama – El Chorillo, Casco Viejo, Porto Lindo

Oh, how beautiful is Panama…is the main phrase of our famous Janosch. So expectations were quite high and maybe it makes sense to confess directly at the beginning that Panama and I have not become friends.

Maybe it was the circumstances how and why to get there, not enough preparation or whatever, but I didn’t feel comfortable from the first moment on.

It started quite promising, as a nice guy in my plain helped me at the immigration and later on offered me to share his car with a private driver to get into town. But at the arrival at my hostel, I started to worry.

What looked promising on the pictures, turned out to be on the border to acceptable. One one hand on the opposite of the streets was a big building in construction and on the other hand, the place was neither clean or comfortable and even basics like toilet paper, spoons and cups were missing. Only 2 nights was the only promising thought. I have to admit, that at least the people in the hostel was very nice and helpful, and everything that I could explore in walking distance was ok, but already I develope a certain feeling of feeling uncomfortable walking around outside.

Upfront my arrival, I got in touch with Victor Perez. I met him via Couchsurfing where he invited me to visit his Kids project in an area called El Chorillio. El Chorillio had made some history with being one of the most dangerous areas in Panama. Also, the place is historical, as the invasion of the USA has taken place here. We agreed on meeting in a cafe nearby two days after my arrival.

To go around in Panama – Grab is your friend. The ride with the car runs through an area called Casco Viejo – which means Old Town. It’s a very beautiful area of Panama as it is stuffed with many colonial buildings, which has been renovated and modernized. Its a huge contrast to the rest of the city as everything here looks clean and rich.

My meeting with Victor was very interesting as he had a lot to explain about the history of this area and his own development. Born as Kuna Jala, he moved into the capital on an early stage. After working several years in Hotel management he was bothered by the development and gentrification that happened around Casco Viejo and El Chorillio. Topped with feeling pity for all the child that grew up at such bad circumstances he decided to quit his job and start to take action.

Through his initiative, he could organize a safe place for the children. The Police station of El Chorillio agreed on placing a development programme for the children in their offices. As the children normally had to spend the day (and nights) mostly on the street, without someone who takes care of them, educate them or simply spent some love to them, this programme invented a huge change for the area. On the one hand, the children have the chance to get some education, on the other hand, they found trust in the police officers.

Soon after Victor found the idea of his program, he found others who liked the idea and started to rais some funding and other initiatives. So I was looking forward to seeing the place of action and find out more.

After our meeting in the cafe, we walked to the police station. I have to confess that this was the first time since I started my travels that I had the deep impression of not being safe.

It was such a huge contrast and happening on such a small scale. With just some steps out of the area of Casco Viejo into the area of El Chorillio, the surrounding changed dramatically. Where a minute ago were beautiful buildings, well-dressed people and clean walkways, now there were broken houses, none maintained walkways and strange people looking at you. Just after a few steps, you feel people watching you. The streets become more and more secluded and I felt losing my orientation.

I ask Victor if he is sure that we can go into this area, and I recognized him greeting people around. He confessed that we are safe and in the right direction. Crazy thoughts run through my mind – „you do exactly what everywhere is written not to do“, „around the next corner, they will rob you“ and so on. I asked Victor how far we have to walk and he replied that it is just a few minutes more. I decided that I will follow him 200m more, and then stop and go back. Luckily we arrived within this 200m.

The police station was far from what I expected as the furniture and equipment reminded me more of 1950 as of 2018. The police officers looked at me like a stranger, but at least they were smiling. Victor started to explain his project ideas to me, showed me pictures from ongoing projects and also some kids were around. Space was very limited and I could imagine how hard this work must be.

After Victor finished his explanations, we walked back. This time I understand that the people in the community already know him and his work. My impression was that people like what he does, and as long I walk with him I’m safe.

Back in Casco Viejo, he recommended a Hotel for me – The Magnolia Inn – which should become my new home for the next week. I moved in the next day, and again I run into a thing that I never had experienced up front. At the reception, they handed a map to me. The picture showed the area of Casco Viejo which was surrounded by a blacked out area – El Chorillio! The area was commented with the words „Don’t go here“ and I felt stupid about my exploration the day before. So I decided not to meet with Victor again and explained to him my feelings. He promised me that I don’t have to worry but my decision was already done.

Instead, I explored the beauty of Casco Viejo a bit more and had some fun meeting every day new people in the hostel. One evening a young girl arrived and reported that her luggage was lost at the airport. As she didn’t have anything I borrowed some clothes and shower gel. The next day we decided to move to Porto Lindo together. Porto Lindo is located in the northeast of Panama, close to the area of the San Blas Islands. My hope was to meet people and find a cheap trip through the islands. The regular price to find in Panama City was around 5 days / 500€ which was quite expensive from my point of view. To get to Porto Lindo we had to take a bus, passing through Sabanitas. Sabanitas is close to Colone and known to be a dangerous place. As we started in the morning and told the taxi driver where we want to go, he warned us as well. We should take care of the bus station in Sabanitas, where we had to change the bus. Again I felt quite uncomfortable and I become a bit nervous about our trip.

We managed to find our bus and the trip up to Sabanitas was easy and nothing bad happened at all. But as we arrived at the checkpoint in Sabanitas, the bus guide stepped out of the bus and guided us around the corner. I felt eyes watching us, and tension in the air. Around the corner at the next bus stop already a lot of people was waiting. Here the tension becomes normal again, and a few minutes later the chicken bus, we had to take comes around the corner. We were the only tourists on the bus, but the people looked friendly and my nervosity becomes lower again.

Reaching Porto Lindo, we found ourselves in a very small village, where most houses looked kind of broken and obviously the people here was poor too. Our hostel was up one road and around 500m up the hill to walk. The owner of the hostel was very nice and kind but the hostel itself was a very low standard. 15€ a night was the highest I ever have paid to stay in a dorm. The dorm room was in the basement, wet walls, smelly, dark and no stable WIFI. At least outside was a small kitchen, so we could cook some food. We walked down into the village and did some shopping. Groceries also pricy, and not much to buy. We walked around and all that we saw had a lack of beauty. The sea water along the coast was dirty, a lot of trash everywhere. I started to wonder why so many people reported Panama as beautiful.

Next day I started to figure out a new place to stay with stable WIFI. All the places I found was 30€ – 60€ upwards one night and miles away from the standard that I was used to from SEA (South East Asia). At least I decided for a small hostel that was not located at the sea, in an even smaller village a few kilometers more east as Porto Lindo. Hostal Wunderbar was the name and ran by a German couple. Guido, the owner was that kind of person, who always had a story to tell. His voice was strong and his humor was kind of rough. He reminded me of the actor from the Netflix series Pablo Escobar, and it could not be a better fit in this area. I could negotiate a good price with him for 3 months and WIFI was strong. The place was not a dream place but quite and I could imagine staying here. So we agreed that he will pick me up the next day at the taxi station and I was happy about the process.

Next day I waited at the taxi station for more than one hour, but no Guido appears. After I messaged him a few times, he asked me if I had the possibility to come by taxi. A bit angry I ordered a taxi and moved to the hostel. As I reach there, Guido explained to me that he wants to change our deal. I should take a different room. This room was in the basement and the furniture and decoration were miles away from the room we formally decided on. Also, he wanted me to pay the regular price in the first month and limit the price in the next month so that I will reach the price we agreed on only if I really stay 3 months. I was not okay with this information, and the overall behavior told me it’s better to leave. But as I was kind of desperate and in need of good WIFI for work I agreed on the conditions.

Sadly it was not possible to rent a scooter. The only option to get around was to take a chicken bus. But as the area was far from everything also the busses were rare. It was possible to go to Porto Bello and Back or to go more east to La Guaira. From La Guaira it was possible to take a water taxi to visit La Isla Grande. As there were no buses back to Porto Lindo in the afternoon, you needed to stay overnight or take a taxi. On La Isla Grande the cheapest hostel was 15€ / night and the water taxi was 5€ one way. Quite pricy as La Isla Grande has not much to show and the beaches around also was not very beautiful.

The most beautiful thing from my point of view was the people. The staff in the hotel developed quickly into my part-time family and they take a lot of care to keep me happy. Also, I met Hanna at Hostal Wunderbar. Hanna was from Germany too and regularly lives in the area of Munich. She traveled also a lot and I loved her calm personality and sense of humor.

But even after a few weeks, my feeling of uncomfortable won’t go away. I had to face Christmas and New year upcoming and my wish to be somewhere else becomes more and more overwhelming. Where to go? The first thing that comes into my mind was Koh Kood. I missed my smiling Thailand, the beautiful nature and to swim in the ocean so much. So I decided to free my soul from Panama and booked a ticket to Bangkok. As you have to go a half time around the world the trip was 38 hours in total. But anyway I looked forward to it, as I would fly through San Francisco and Singapore.

Frightened as I was I decided on top not to go by bus. Luckily the brother from Alexandro (the stuff that worked in Hostal Wunderbar) had a car and he offered me to bring me to the airport for a good price.

Two days later we started early in the morning. On our way we passed, the area was there must have been the robbery on the bus. Just by passing with the car it was clearly visible how poor the people must be who lived here. Shocking!

Happily, I arrived at at the airport safely and as quick I have dropped into Panama as quick I was gone again.

Jesus is black !!

Welcome to Miami

The flight to Miami was short and very comfortable. At the Airport I took a Taxi to my hostel and I was happy to find a clean and comfortable room. The Dorm beds had a nice design, with a little locker for your personal stuff and even an own TV. This evening I didn’t do anything and looked forward to finding some proper sleep. Sadly the girl below me seem to have a night rhythm as she was on the phone until around 23:00 then take a shower and left. The next morning she was not in the room. So I took the opportunity to have the bathroom on my own, to take a long and nice shower. Then I left the hostel to visit the famous Miami Beach.

I started my trip on the opposite of the street were there was a typical American Diner. I really felt like in the movie – Pulp Fiction – as this place looked absolutly how you imagine an American Diner. Even the waiter and waitress matched totaly my expectations and I couldnt stop smiling as they come around and asked me „Good morning sweety, what can I do today for you? Coffee?“ – so I ordered an ordinary Toast with coffee, and some cheese and watched the szene in the diner while eating. All other guest ordered a hot breakfast with huge amounts of eggs, pancakes, sausages and other very heavy stuff and I watched it with surprised eyes. There was one lady who only took the order, one lady who brought the coffee and another guy who cleaned the tables. Sugar, milk, salt, pepper, majonaise, ketchup – all was on the table in little plastic boxes and gives me the impression that the states is the country where nobody has to worry about anything. I was impressed.

American Diner
American Diner
American Diner

Google Maps told me it is just a 15 min. walk but after approximately 10 min. it was clear that it was not a distance to walk. I saw a lady in the street who looked like waiting for a bus and ask her for information. She confirmed that I can take the L bus to Miami Beach and also we had a little nice chat. I was very surprised about how friendly all the people was that I met. The bus arrived and I looked forward to my journey. A few stops later and elderly man enterd the bus, and took the seat next to me. He started a conversation and I figured out that his name was Connor and that he lives here in Miami since the 80th. I asked where to leave the bus and he suggested me to take the same exit as he will do. He offered me to walk me around and explain the area to me, and I agreed. He was a very nice person. His look was a bit dirty and his clothes was not in best condition, but he seemed to be very honest and he had huge knowledge about the area.

So I found myself walking with Connor along the famous Ocean Boulevard. A lot of the houses had the unique Art-Deco style, and nearly each building was owned by someone famous, or something interesting has happend here. So we pass the house where the movie „Scarface“ with Al Pacino was made, the Versace house, a cafe owned by Bruce Willis, and one place that was owned by Madonna. The Boulevard it self was ocupied from such a huge amount of big or expensive cars that it was kind of unreal. The traffic was very slow and it was obviously that is not about to get from one place to the other, then to show what you got. Also the people matched my expectations. You saw 80th looking like roller skater, oiled body builder, surfer boys, and ladys on high heels. 

I enjoyed the converstation with Connor. The story of his live was for sure not a boring one, with ups and downs. He confessed to me that for a certain time he was on crack. The using was the reason why he lost his wife, as he spent all her money on drugs. As there wasnt anything anymore, he regret and found peace in god. Since then he didnt drink or use anymore and visit the church on regular bases. He showed my pictures of his family and I felt kind of sad as he confesses that he never had the opportunity to left the country. I promised him that, if I really will buy a sailboat, to come around and take him out for a sail. I invited him on a bagel and a coffee in Madonnas cafe, and after he helped my to find a place where I could bye some post cards we sayed goodbye to each other.

My next stop was to pass from the Boulevard to the beach. I was surprised that the beach was not that ugly as I expected it. It is a very long beach, that stretches as far as you can see. Along the beach side you see a lot of very big hotels but somehow this does not really destroy the look. Every 250m you see a Baywatch tower, and a lot of people was chilling in the sun. The color of the water was nice blue, and didn’t looked dirty at all. The beach was full, but not overcrowded. Of course this is not a place where you want to spent two weeks but for 2-3 days it might be nice. Surprisingly nice.

I walked a bit around and become witness of the famous drag queen shows in the Palace Cafe. I didnt know that Miami is also famous for gay people and it was kind of funny that next to the Palace cafe a man on the corner offered free HIV tests. I found a nice little place where they sold fresh made, vegetarian wraps and smoothies. A real delight! 

I walked back the way where Connor and I had started our trip and then found a cheep latino shop where they sold luggage. I decided to buy one, as my bag was absolutly not made for Backpacking like trips. Happy and Impressed I returned by UBER back to my hostelitself and started to repack my luggage. Clearly to much stuff! The luggage was so heavy that I directly worry about how to travel with this from now on. I decided not to worry about that now to much and instead to go out for a dinner. 

Earlier this day I have seen a restaurant near by which advertised its place with „organic“, „bio“ and so on. I ordered some champions topped with cheese and a sparkeling water. Taste was great and the place was nicly decorated. I enjoyed the food even if it was a bit pricy. Then I returned to my Hostel and enjoyed a good and long sleep. 

In the morning I took an UBER to the Airport and again I had the chance to had a very nice chat with the female driver. The also was a single mom and obviously she needed to UBER to keep her family up and running. She explained that she is kind of an artist but lack here in Miami opportunities to present her art or find like minded people. Also she explained that from being a young girl on, she loved writing and so she was super happy as I gave her some tips where she can find online work and opportunities where to earn some money. 

Finally, at the airport, I felt a bit sad to leave Miami so soon, as I really enjoyed my time here. Goodbye Miami – Hello Panama

Miami Airport

Le Marin and good bye Jabulo

As planned, the next morning we started our sail to Le Marin. Approximately 5 hours was planned for the sailing, what was not really matching to my plans, as I had to work this day. Like ordered in the universe the bottom rope from our Mainsail crushed, so we had to switch to the motor. The bay of Le Marin is the main meeting point for sailors in the Carribean. Its hard to guess but approximately 1500 – 2000 boats are on anchorage in the bay. As we entered the bay we had to pass a transport ship for motor yachts and sail yachts. I never have seen something like this before. A huge vessel where you drove your ship into. Crazy!

The plenty of boats around left their traces. The water around us was blurry and greenish. Not to compare with Trinidad but definitely not the water where you are lucky to jump into every day. 

As Martinique belongs to EU, my regular phone contract with data should work here, but the coverage at our anchorage was pretty bad. By Dhingy you easily can drove over to the Marina nearby. Prices in the Marina Bars was high as expected, but WIFI was good. I spent the first day with working full time, and then in the afternoon, I tried to figure out what SIM card options are available. Here I have to say – fail Martinique – all available Data plans was something around 2GB/40€ which was unacceptable for me. So I spent the rest of the afternoon sitting in Mc Donalds as they offered free WIFI too. So my options were to sit on land, day by day and use the WIFI from the Bar at the Marina, or a similar place or to pay 40€ on average for 2 days mobile WIFI. All in all, it was clear that I could not stay here until the middle of February. 

So, I decided to look for flights and I already had figured out that the cheepest way to get away from Martinique is to fly through the US (Miami or Fort Lauderdale). Flights on my earlier research was around 300€ and I was happy in the end to find a flight for 200€ through Miami to Panama. Sadly the flight was on the 1tst of December which shorten my stay on Jabulo one week down. But on the other hand I looked forward to be back on my own. I figured out that the flight from Miami to Panama is a regular flight on every day and so I thought by myself – why not stay one night longer in Miami and visit the famous Miami Beach?! Accomodation was a bit pricy but in the end I found a Hostal near the Airport for 80€ / 2 Nights.  After all my worries and a bit of sorrow, I thought that this would be a perfect adventure to move my mind to other thoughts and booked it. 

Later, when I was back in the Marina, I started a conversation with a guy I met there. His name was „Nacho“, coming from Spain and an engineer in renewable Energies. He told me that his boat is on sale and so I asked him if Martha and I can come around for a visit later on. He agreed and after we cooked something we took the Dhingy and headed over to his boat. The boat was an old Endevour. He explained to us, that this boat model was used in the series Miami Vice. Sonny Crocket was living on a boat model like this in the series, what make this model kind of famous. He also explained, that only 80 pieces of this model was build and aproximatly 20 of them was used in the series. Anyway for me this was not a boat what I would love to own, as it was very heavy and the interior was made from dark wood. This take so much light in the inside that I imagine to get depressions if I had to life there.

Then Nacho told us about some live music later on, and some friends with a brand new Catamaran who do a party on the boat. He wanted to ask if we can join and we arranged to meet up ashore around 7. It turned out that the live music was a karaoke event in the bar of the marina. We stayed for some drinks and as the music becomes louder which each song, we decided to leave around 10. The situation was perfect, as was able Nacho took us directly to the party boat. On the boat was a young crew from mainly polish people, loud music, and enough drinks. The boat was impressive. Brand new, and with a lot of luxury details. The people of the crew was amazingly friendly and it was a lot of fun, to mingle around, talking and enjoying the night. With a good portion of rum, Uwe and I decided to leave around 3 in the night and we both was astonished that we was able to stay that long.

Next morning I woke up with a strong hangover, but still happy about the funny night before. It was planned to go out for dinner in the evening, but as Martha had stayed overnight with one of the guys from the party boat, it happens that she wanted to head over to his boat over the weekend. That made our dinner a bit uncomfortable and not like a goodbye dinner as it should ment to be. Anyway this only confirm my decision to leave the boat.

It was not possible to figure out a clear plan of how to get to the airport, but Uwe has promised me to help with my luggage. As this luggage was intended to be for 6 month and traveling on boat, it was challenging to take this super big bag to the airport. 30° and straight sunlight made me sweat and this pushes my anger about the situation a bit more. Somehow Uwe and I managed to arrive at the bus station and he asked some people around to figure out what is the right bus. I don’t understand French that much but the explanation from the people sounds like I had to wait a bit longer for another bus. But Uwe told me it is fine and placed me on the next bus that appears. I understand that I had to switch to a shared taxi later on, and thought by myself that I will reach the airport somehow.

The drive with the bus was nice. Soon as we had left the area of Le Marin, the landscape looked very beautiful and like it wants to be explored. Also the switch to the shared taxi was not a problem and overall I did the way to the airport for 4€ in total. The shared taxi drop me off at the exit of the motorway and just from looking it was clear that I had to walk about 2km from here. The bag was horrible to carry, as it always crushed into my legs. Only the anger inside of me makes it happend that I made the way. 

The airport was still asleep when I arrived at 10 a.m. I got a coffee, and some food and then I felt the release in my mind. From that moment I was sure that I did the right thing. So it is – goodbye Jabulo – hello Miami

Goodbye Le Marin

Up to Martinique

After our three nights in the Keys we had to left up north again to reach Martinique in time. The passage is easy to sail in two days if you consider a one night stop in St. Vincent or St. Lucia. We decided that we go up to St. Lucia and then spent the night in the bay of the two Pitones, as we last time have missed to go for snorkeling there.

In perfect sailing conditions and in a good mood it was a very nice trip. Martha dominated steering the boat as usual, and Isabell and I chilled through the trip. The light was so nice and also my biggest wish has been fulfilled – Dolphins and rainbows in the sky!

The group swam for approximately 10 min. in front of our vessel and shortly after the disappearance a much bigger single Dolphin showed up. Sadly he was so quick that I couldn’t caught him on camera.

Dolphins and Rainbows

Each time you reach the Deux Pitones its super impressive again. I don’t know exactly what it is, but I guess the reason is, that you see them already from very far away and then, as more close you come, as more huge they become. The form is somehow unusual for mountains as the both have such a sharp tip. It seems impossible to climb them and the trees and roots on them has totally merged into the picture. Also each time when we was here, the sunset was amazing and so this time too.

The next morning Martha and I jumped from board to do a quick snorkeling trip. The water above the mooring was pretty deep, about 100m. It takes some courage to swim over to the snorkeling spot, cause the color of the water differs from the other spots were we have been so far. Its a deep blue and as you can’t see the ground neighter see fish around you on your first look it feels a little like a step into a unknown space. 

I told my mind not to look down and instead just look straight. I spoke a straight word not to think about the deep and swam over. The reef reminded mine on a snorkeling that I did last year on the Maldives. It was like the outer reef where you just can look along the edge of it, down into the deep. As deeper it gets, as bigger the fish is going to be but you only see them raw and not really sharp. So its more about shadows and your imagination. Near to the surface, the fishes are smaller and there was plenty of them. Swarms – and they seemed to have no fear, come close to my camera and I nearly could touch them. The reef was not super spectacular but nice. On the way back we had to untie the rope around the mooring. Same as last time it was wrapped many times around the mooring string. This happened cause of the wind during the night.

Next morning we started to Martinique. I had agreed with the captain to make a final decision about leaving the boat or not if we arrive Le Marin. As the boat will stay there until the middle of February. This was a little pressure on my mind. I figured out the decisions, in general, makes me nervous. I fear to do a wrong one, I guess – even if I have learned that it makes no sense to complain about the past. 

The sail to Martinique was easy and chilled. We headed for Fort a Fance, the main capital of Martinique. The Bay of Fort a France is huge. So huge that speed ferrys crossing from one side to the other like subways. Green and red tons guides us the way to the aanchorage and it was a surprise as the anchorige dosn’t look that ugly as I have expected. We place the boat in front of the wall of an old fortress and it was just some meters to reach the shore. 

As this was Isabelle’s last evening we decided to go ashore for dinner. The area around the dock looked pretty nice. Many old buildings, a lot of people on the streets, music playing everywhere, palm trees and a soft warm wind surrounded us. On top, we found a veggie restaurant where we eat a small plate for plenty of money. Anyway, I liked it here and so my hopes were growing that Le Marin might be worthy to stay. 

The next day Martha and I explored the city a bit more. It was Sunday and mainly all the shops were closed but it was nice walking around. The area looked like it might be fun staying around. People were super friendly. After we took a look into an old cathedral a man in the street stops us, and ask if we might want to have a look at his art gallery. We agreed and he opens the door only for us. All stuff that was on sale was unique and handmade by local artists. There was wonderful paintings, upcycled jewelry, and handmade clothes. Sadly all the stuff was a bit too expensive for us, but in the end, I bought a pair of earrings. Made of wood in the shape of pineapples and burned patterns on it. 

As we returned to the boat we become a witness of a sailing race done on traditional sailboats. The hull of the boats was made of wood, the shape of the sail was a square and the crew hand to lean out of the boat on long wooden bars to keep the boat upright in the wind. They were astonishing fast and just by watching it, it was clear that it must be fun to be part of the crew and sailing. 

Martinique and traditional sailing boats

Then it was time to say goodbye to Isabelle and Michael, who had to head back home. The evening was quite and I spent a lot of time with thinking about my options how to go on. Next morning, so our plan, we would go to Le Marin and than I had to make a final decision.  

Mayreau and the Tobago Keys, Black Boy and Leon

Finally, we could convince our captain to head in the direction to the Tobago Keys. A heavy wind was forecasted but our passage was mainly easy. Our first stop was the Salt Whistle Bay which is part of Mayreau. A very beautiful bay, filled with sailboats that were escaping the upcoming winds in the evening. Ashore was just 20m away from the boat and Martha and I jumped directly into the water to swim there.

Sadly the water was blurry and nothing to see in it, but somehow this should be a lucky way, as I found 20EC on the ground of the sea. The view of the bay was like on a postcard. Palm trees, white sand, nice little huts and friendly people around us. As usual, some boat boys had guided us to our mooring spot and invites us to come for a visit to the last bar on the beach. I invited Martha to a drink that we paid from the just found 20 EC.

Quickly we got into a conversation with the owner of the bar and the chef of the kitchen. We explained that we are vegan and vegetarian and the chef offered us to cook something special for us in the evening. So we swam back to our boat and talked to the rest of the crew if they might join us for a dinner ashore later. They agreed.

The evening started with a meet-up of an American patchwork family and their 3 kids. The father of the family had caught a fish during the day and had made a deal with the owner of the bar, that the owner can keep the rest of the fish after the family was fed.

Martha and I got the promised special vegan and vegetarian diet, what we truly enjoyed. The awkward moment happened to me, as I run my rum with coke over the pants of the family father, but luckily another drink was dropped so that I don’t felt so much ashamed anymore.

Quickly it turned out that we – the youth – would love to spend the evening ashore. Accidentally we run into the group of French people that we saw a few days ago in the bay of Bequia the first time. We recognized them cause they had a very beautiful boat and a sign on it that it is for sale. Beneteau Oceanis 44 in white with shiny orange stripes. These group of French people must have been professional party people as I didn’t can name a date were I drunk that much before. Anyway, it was a super nice evening as the owner of the boat starts singing, dancing and playing some rhythm instruments later on. As Martha decided to stay on land, I take the opportunity to go back on board by a lift from the French group. We stopped by their boat but I was too drunk to see anything. I knew already that he wants to sell the boat for 70.000 so I spoke out an offer on 50.000. I’m not sure if it might be a good sign that he didn’t agree directly. So far I have learned that it is a good idea to buy a boat which is inactive sailing and not on land or anchorage for a longer time. This guy sails the boat for 4 years.

My destiny??!!
My destiny ?

Next morning I was sick and not even in condition to visit the boat again. Instead, I visited a local guy whom boat stand next to ours. His name was Black Boy and he was in the company of two boys. One in the age of 13-14 and one little boys in the age of 3-4. It was obvious that they were not rich and I wonder why they prefer to live on the boat and not on land. My thought was that reason might be, that the boat offers the better conditions. The Boat was an old boat made of concrete. The hull was already full of green, and clearly, this boat won’t sail anymore.

Black boy recognized just from looking to my side that I might have a hangover. He offered us some self-made coconut bread, what we agreed on to buy it. I jumped into the water and swam to his boat. We talked a little bit and he explained that he adopted the boys. The older boy with name Leon, he found on a market in Trinidad. His mother, he explained, was crazy and not able to take care of the kid. So he offered him to stay with him. The school system in St. Vincent and the Grenadines is free for primary school but you have to pay for high school. The cost is 250€ a year what they were not able to effort. I felt so sorry for the boys and honestly, I was not sure if the engagement from Black Boy really was in a good thought or not. Leon had to paddle the dinghy often and also I saw him cleaning the dishes and doing other things working. The small boy didn’t say much and gives the impression that he is good. But anyway I had doubts.

After a little nap, I swam over to Black Boys boat again and explained to him about Airbnb. My hope was that he will find a possibility to make a living on this. He understands very well, and directly he came up with the idea to make an apartment out of the boat. I felt happy. Then I bought a pair of fins from our captain and gave them as a present to Leon. I told him he should read as many books as possible and that I will send him some letters from Germany. I hope he will make it.

Black Boys Boat
cof

In total, we stayed two nights in the bay and then headed to the Tobago Keys. We welcomed Michael on board, who joined us escaping from his old crew. He was a very experienced sailor and it was interesting to listen to his talks about sailing.

The sail to the Tobago Keys was just around the corner and we reached it within two hours. Sadly it was very windy and a strong current was in the water. Martha and I took the Dhingy and drive to the sandbank in front of us. It was funny as we had to put the Dhingy up to land, and we really struggled a little. The wind was so strong that the sand of the island was blown around like in a sandstorm. We took your snorkeling equipment and jumped into the water. The water was very shallow and lots of broken corals were on the ground. Nothing spectecular to see, except a very big puffer fish.

Our attempt to put the Dhingy back to water was even more funny and struggeling as to put it to land. But somehow we managed. Back on the boat I saw turtles swimming around and I was sad that the current was so strong. Two hours later, Isabelle, Michael, Martha and I started another attempt. We took the Dhinghy to the belt of reefs and tired it to one of the prepared moorings. We jumped into the water like as we are divers. The wind and the current was so strong that we hardly could swim against it and also there was not much to see. I could hear the imaginary sad trumped in my head. 

In the meantime when we were in the water I got a message from Monique who recommends a place to go for us. But as the wind was horribly strong, I don’t even ask the captain to move there. On the map, the place looked great, but I had figured out in the meantime that a question like this would be senseless. It was already clear that the next morning our captain would love to leave the keys early and we then head back to Soufriere again. 

So I guess I have to go there again 🙂

Me in the Tobago Keys

Soufriair and Bequia – Part 2

As the announcement about the higher costs changes my perspective about the trip, I and Martha become pushier to force our captain to sail more. So we left Rodney Bay after two nights.

We headed back to Soufrier, what was not our most loved spot so far. Isabel, the daughter of our captain informs me that her mother is not a person who loves to be on a sailboat. Which means that the planned stay in Martinique will not be a period of sails around the island.

As, from my point of view, our behavior against the boat boys was not very polite, I decided to act on them this time different. As the apporached, I apologized for our behavior last time and explained the reason of the double payment is not a nice thing. I explained further that I can understand them and that I agree that it is important that the local people get their cut from the generated income that comes by the tourist industrie. 

I think they were happy about my thoughts and this time they were very polite. They placed our mooring directly upon a very nice snorkeling area. Just one jump away and then directly in the middle. I did some nice pictures and also our visit on land was this time a little brighter.  We stayed for three nights. Even if I would have stayed a bit longer, Martha pushed our captain to go on. The main goal was to make it until the Tobago Keys which was a mention of our captain to be very beautiful. 

As we had to be in Martinique at the 25th of November time becomes running. Depending on the wind our captain had was uncertain if we will have enough time to reach them. This was the reason that we constantly pushed our captain to go on. So we left Soufrier and headed back to Bequia.

I’m not sure if I already had mentioned that our Autopilot was gone. One morning it simply does not work anymore, so now during sailing someone had to steer the boat. The sea was perfect when we started but becomes more and more rough as closer we got to Bequia. The distance between Soufrier and Bequia is a good one day sailing. So the sun was already down as we arrive in the bay. The wind had become up to 20 knots and it was very good that we already known the bay that well. 

Our captain decided for a different anchorage this time, one that was more close to the main land, but without a protective mountain in our front. As we wanted to set the anchor, the anchor winsh won’t work anymore.  It was a shocking moment as for one minute we thought that we now had to spend the night in the strong wind outside of the bay, with one person steering the whole night, but we could convince our captain to go for a mooring. The mooring maneuver was tricky, as the wind drifted the boat quickly. We needed four approaches until we finally got the mooring. 

As the mooring was expensive and still the wind was very strong, the next day we placed the boat more close to the beach where we was last time. Martha and I swam ashore to meet Leon in his bar. As we arrived there a bunch of people was his guest. We started talking, took a drink and quickly it becomes a party like atmosphere. 

I returned to the boat but Martha stayed during the night. As she had made friends the night it happened that the next we I found myself in the company of this group. There was Katie – a girl from Germany, Claudia – a girl from Italy, Alex – a guy from Canada and we headed for a secret beach on the Atlantic side of the island. The trip started with a Taxi drive to the other side of the island, which was dominated by very steep roads up the mountains and ended up at a mansion from a German guy who lived there. He explained to us where to go so we started walking. Shortly after we started a little black dog comes in our direction. It looked like he was living on a property that we pass on our way. His fur was very shiny and he had a collar. The dog joined us and gave us the impression of guiding us through our way. The house around was all super impressive and the view was simply amazing. We had to leave the street and follow a little path downhill. The pass ends up in front of the beach, where there were three cows on a piece of green. The cows watched us but didn’t move even if they were free.

The beach was located in a huge bay, surounded by high mountains covered in crooked trees. The trees were grown from the wind into one direction and overall the effects from the rough weather was visible. The waves was high and not really made for swimming, but we got into the water a little. Each one of us started to walk around and explore the area. We found an old building behind some coconut trees, we made it to open one of the coconuts and enjoyed eating the flesh of it. Eeach of us had collected some plastic from the beach and also we found an old bucket that we use to put our collection in. Next to the old building we found another path back to the top and decided to take this one. The dog, still in our company followed us. We was joking that he really is an amazing guide and was astonished as we found a land turtle deep in the woods, passing our way. 

As we finally reached the top, it turned out that our doggy-guide was not what we expected. It was more than maybe the dog was in hope that we adopt him. We walked a bit around but soon we discover that we don’t know how to return to the street where we were coming from. We decided to order a taxi and now had to make a decision what to do with the dog. I guess it was me as a dog lover who forced the others to bring the dog back to the place where he had joined us. This decision cost us 10EC but I promised to cover it. As we reached the area where we picked him up, it doesn’t look for me like he is home there. Anyway, I had to let him go. This day was what I would call a Robinson-Day. Just wonderful!

Bequia felt like home already. We joined one of the famous street parties, met friends at the vegetable market, chilled out at Leon’s beach bar, and the day’s flows quickly. The wind calms down and finally, we could head to our next destination. The Tobago Keys! 

St. Lucia – Soufriere, Castries & Rodeny Bay

As we had to get in the daughter from the captain in Castries, we had to leave Bequia after 5 days. Our passage would drive us along the coast of St. Vincent up north to St. Lucia. St. Lucia is known for its landmark the Deux Pitones. Our captain told us that there is a bay with a private resort in the middle of the Pitones and that we can go there for anchorage.

Our passage started early in the morning with very good sailing conditions. Clear blue sky, enough wind but no high waves. I and Martha were very motivated as we didn’t sail that much so far. Our sailing maneuvers had improved so far and our teamwork runs pretty smoothly.

Shortly after we left the area close to land, we got some pretty good wind and also the company of some seabirds. These seabirds were really fun to watch as they are amazingly talented in flying, hunting, and diving. I’m not sure what they do, but it looked like the ship makes the flying fishes run in front of the boat. Also, it looked like the birds use the terms of the sails or the shadow to get a good position for their hunt. Once they see a fish, they rush down like an arrow, dive up to 1m deep into the ocean and try to make their catch. Wonderful to watch.

Also, the Deux Pitones was cool to watch. Already from 20km away they were very well visible at the horizon. As more close you come as more impressive they are. Then when you finally pass them, its hard to keep the mouth closed while watching them. Inside of the bay is a private resort & spa. The houses looked like build from matchsticks or taken from the build mode in The Sim’s. Unreal in this nature and unreal is the difference wealth between this spa and the local people.

A not that nice side effect from leaving St. Vincent was, that the locals who offer you vegetables, fish or help with the moorings ins St. Lucia was quite pushier than in St. Vincent. A young guy comes with his boat already when we were nearly 2 SM far away. He told us that he is the boat guide and that he will guide us to the mooring. Later on a boat with marine rangers appears and they also take a payment for the anchorage. So we paid twice!

Next day we drive our vessel around the corner to the city Soufriere. Once this was the main capital of St. Lucia but today is not much left from that time. You found a lot of old houses but all in not very good conditions. Also, the people on the streets looked more desperate then on the other Islands where we had been so far. We found a cafe where the owner of the cafe plant, peel and roast the coffee himself. Also, he had a friend in the Cafe (Zaka, Caribbean Totem, and Mask) who sold self-made soaps. „Forever young,“ says the promising title but sadly cost of import is so height that it might stay a local product. Anyway, the iced self-made coffee was a really good one and definitely worth the 5€ that it costs.

As we had to get the daughter of the skipper from Castries, we left Soufriere quickly and headed north. Castries is the main capital of St. Vincent today. As we sail along the coast it was clearly visible that as more north we sail it more touristic it becomes. This impression was crowned when we entered the harbor of Castries as we have to pass along a very big Cruiseship. The dimension of this ships is simply not from this world. Everything seems to be too small next to them. Approximately 2900 people can drive on one of this ships and when you pass the side you see balcony next to the balcony. I totally can’t understand why people do such a trip. We pass one side of the Cruise ship and found our selves in the middle of the „harbor“ which was located in the middle of the city. Our view mixed with an area where container ships and containers were managed, three cruise ships in total, a street with 4 lanes, and some very big buildings around us. Ashore was a karaoke bar, and we were able to hear the singing also on the boat. I’m not a singer but this sound was the worst I have ever heard. The mix of all these impressions colors the whole scene in something unreal.

The next morning started with a bad surprise for me. As our captain breaks down the cost we had so far, it turned out that he wants us to pay a shared for the cost of the boat too. 50€ a week plus a contribution for each hour the engine is running and the shared cost for food on top. This ends up that the cost for the month was somewhere around 950€ instead on the earlier announced 650€. As I also spent some private money for drinks, food, and stuff when we were ashore I end up on costs around 1300€ for the whole month.

This was definitely not the budget I have planned for the trip. The fact that our captain and I obviously had different ideas about where to anchor and what places to visit, I started to consider my possibilities. On top, it started to rain heavily.

Rodney Bay is the bay where the ARC (The race to cross the Atlantic) ends up. It was over touristic, ugly and boring. The ongoing permanent rain, my thought about the situation and the fact that there was not much to see ends up in the situation that I only take one picture. It is this one:

Earth is flat
Earth is flat

Bequia – amazing pearl, very strong rum and Simeon the local hero.

Somehow I start being afraid to start each following articles with the words, that this place has been the most beautiful so far. For Bequia, this is totally true. Bequia is next to St. Vincent the biggest Island in St. Vincent and the Grenadines. The whole island is specialized on yacht people and sailors. Sure one reason that Bequia is loved by sailors is that the Admiralty Bay comes, with perfect conditions. By nature, the surrounding hills form a save and calm bay where it is easy to stay on anchorage and has enough space to give a home to boats.

Approximately 8000 people live on Bequia. It is a pleasure to walk along the coastline, and watch and visit all the colorful houses, shops and bars. The people of Bequia totally have understood how to make a place good looking. With lots of love for details, one house is more beautiful than the other one and you can’t stop watching while go walk along.

 

Jabulo was on anchoridge in a aproximatly 7 min. drive with the Dinhgy. Not that the beauty on land was already mindblowing, no – also we had the luck that our anchoridge was located in the daily life area of two sea turtles. While snorkeling, each time in an unexpected manner, they appear into your view. As you met them so often, sometimes I had the luck to swim several minutes with them together.

It was surprising, that Google couldn’t deliver much information about the daily routine of sea turtles. It was written that they normally live a nomadic lifestyle. All three years they get together to find a partner and copulation. In the early years, the eat a diet that includes meat and later on they becom vegetarian. In the age of 15 years they become fertile and they can reach 50 years of age. Sadly the time we spent here was not long enough to figure out more about their daily life. Also I didnt had the impression that the fact that here was two of them, looked like they were a couple. What I can say is that it was pure joy to watch them each day.

Next, to the turtles, we discover a yellow, black sea snake, an octopus who had lost one tentacle, a group of pufferfish, that seem to protect the snake and a big shell of a muscle that I sadly could not reach by diving. Same as in the other bays there were local people that drive around and offer lobster, ice, diesel, laundry, vegetables, and other stuff.

Alex was the name of the guy who droves this lobster boat. When he comes into my view, he hold up the poor lobster up in the air and the lobster snaps his tail and tried to escape. I shout to Alex that I just want to set the lobster free if I would buy him. That seemt to be unbelivable for Alex. He comes closer with his boat and we start to talk about a possible deal. I have to confess that he totaly ripped me off, as I pay 60EC for the lobster, but that was not that important to me in this moment. Alex asked me about 2-3 times if I’m serious in what I’m saying, if I really want to set the lobster free. I had to confirm more than once and finaly we choose one of the tree lobster to set him free. Plums, and then he runs down in the water and sink to the ground. The water was clear and Alex followed the lobster for some moments. We both laugh and say goodby – and in my mind I named the lobster George.

While we explore the village we was informed that on Fridays and Saturdays people do dance partys on the street and we definetly should visit them by chance. So we decided to have some drinks upfront and than check out if we will have luck to join one of the partys. This journey seems to be so healthy to me that I hardly make it to stay awake longer than 8 p.m. We agreed on the old people go back to the boat and the young people goes back to land to join the party. But then we been shocked.

As we arrived the Dhingy dock, our Dinghy was not there. Our thoughts run from someone has stolen the Dhingy to my knot was not strong enough. In my head I saw a big 5000€ number blinking as this was the expected cost for the Dinghy. We decided to go back to the bar where we were before and aks the owner for help. The owner of the bar (Papa’s) called the police and a few minutes later two young officers in civil clothes arrive at the bar. They aks us to join their car (also a civil car and in a very bad condition) to drive down to the dinghy dock. The car was iching and scratching while driving and it must have looked very funny how we three sit in the back of this tiny car.

Down at the dinghy dock we discover that the police does not have a boat for such situation. As it was already dark we dont calculated any chance in finding the Dhingy when it floats free in the bay during the night. We also was informed that maybe someone took the Dinghy a ride (Taxi). While we discribed how the Dhingy looked like, we saw another Dhingy not far in directon of the next left Dhingy dock. As we started to move over there a man appears and started to tell the police officer that he have seen someone driving away to the right side of the bay and that he wonder as he saw that, cause he saw us coming in this Dinghy

The man, we later should discover was named Simeon, develop to our local hero. It turned out that his observations was correct and because we now had an idea of direction, the officers seem to know where to go. Again we drove in their car two bays ahead and then luckily found our dhinghi there. What a luck!

Two days later we invited Simeon for a drink and I really enjoyed the talk with him. He was an easy, honest, polite and giving person who loved football. In his free time he train a youth group and did this quite good. I promised him to send a new original Trikot to him, when I’m back home. That one that he was wearing was quite old. Sadly to late I understand that instead of a new Trikot he would more like to make a donation to his team. Wow.. I like people like that.

Haven on fire
cof

Everlasting memories! Next Stop St. Lucia.

Carriacou / Grenada

So far, Carriacou was the nicest place we have visited. When we arrived we place Jabulo in Tyrell Bay. Tyrell Bay is quite full with sailboats and you will recognize that most boats look like designed for longer passages. Many boats with aluminum hull and a quiet atmosphere along the ships.

We had the luck that directly next to our anchorage there were two nice shipwrecks in the bay. Perfect for snorkeling. Also, the water in the bay was pretty good in comparison to Trinidad for example. So I directly jumped into the water, stuffed with my camera and take a look at the wrecks.

As it was already afternoon and the sun starts to rise, the light underwater made a perfect image when I approach the first wreck. Like in a picture book, you could see the front of the ship, the driver’s place and a big winch in the back of the ship. One side was completely gone, but the other side remains half. There where the walls of the ship offer some shadow, fishes use the boat as protection or a playground. There was no new species so far and also the number of different species was not overwhelming but, as it was just one jump away from our boat, it gives a nice space for exploration.

With my constant need of WIFI, we decided to stay until Tuesday, cause I had a phone call that day. The mobile data doesn’t work well at our anchorage so I had to move to a restaurant at the beach. The Lazy Turtle restaurant invites you with fancy lights in the evening, and a colorful wall painting in the day. The Lazy Turtle had a dinghy dock in front with a little pear that seems to end directly at the beginning of their stairs for entrance.

On our first visit to the Lazy Turtle, we allowed us to have a cocktail. I had a very good Mojito and I would not say that I felt drunk, but as we return to the boat and I tried to grab the grip at the boat, I fell over. I and the bag with my computer landed in the water. All my thoughts were with my computer and after managed to hand the bag to Uwe, I helped to pull the Dinghy to the boat. It must have looked very funny how I fall into the water, and after I ensured that my computer was super dry and safe, I could finally laugh about myself. What a mess! 🙂

The next day we did another shipwreck visit and brave Martha really manage to find my sunglasses that I had lost the night before, where I did my unwanted dive into the water. As there was a very big see star on the ground I didn’t manage to focus on my sunglasses and later on neither I or Martha was able to find the classes again.

The next day we lift anchor and headed by motor to Sandy I. A sand bay in front of Hillsborough Bay. Hilsborow bay is the second bay on Carriacou and an Immigration is located there. We wanted to declare out the next morning and decided to stay overnight at Sandy I, where a nice little reef was located. Sandy I is a man-made bay from the sand with some palm trees and other green. The perfect location for a perfect Caribbean picture.

As the area around Sandy I is declared as protected marine area, you are not allowed to throw your anchor. But a bunch of mourning is in front of the bay. We caught one and as fast as I can I jumped into the water. I and Martha wanted to figure out if it is possible to swim over to the beach bay, but after we pass one reef the water becomes very shallow and it seems to be impossible to reach the coast without touching the ground. We both decided that we don’t want to put us on such risk and decided just to explore the area a bit.

In the reef, a lot of different species lived there. I caught one fish on camera that I never have seen before. Also, huge fish swarms were around. It was very interesting to see. The younger fish swam in the outside of the swarm, and in the inside, the more old fish swam. Like a protection ring around that fish that is able to produce new fish. Clever!.  Martha swam completely into the swarm and it looked amazing how she was surrounded by all the little fishies.

I also saw a big stingray. But he was too far away as I could catch him on camera. Also, the water was so shallow that I must have got very close to him, what I don’t want. But overall it was a nice swim and snorkeling. On the surface, we could watch Pelikan birds with their amazing talent to catch fish. They fly up, look into the water, and then fall down like an arrow. They dive into the water with their heads and half of the body, catch the fish and lift up into the sky. Fantastic!

The afternoon was filled and completed first with Roney, a young guy who sold vegetables and fruit to us. This is something that you will experience a lot here in the Caribbean. Local people who came by on a small boat, to sell fruit, oyster, lobster or take away your trash. Our Romney surprisingly had good tomatoes, which we bought and a bunch of bananas. He told us that he also works as DJ but none of us caught the invitation to figure out how professional he might be.

Then sunset began, and it was one of this sunset that keeps you speechless for 60min. Started with the sun that falls down directly in the middle of two big rocks on the horizon, followed by orange and yellow that filled the wide area, break at the clouds and makes the sky look like it burns. As there were many clouds in the sky the colors and shapes seem to be endless, even after the sun was already down. How blessed I am!

Diese Diashow benötigt JavaScript.

The forecast speaks about heavy winds in the afternoon, so we decided to start quickly. First, we drive the boat by the motor to Hillsborough Bay, and then approach land to clear out at immigration. To bad that we didn’t have more time here. Such a nice and lovely place!! So sweet buildings, shops, and interesting looking people. As far as I have understood only 800 – 900 people living on Carriacou, so it is not a metropole area, but I definitely could imagine having a wonderful holiday here.

Grenada, Isle de Ronde and hygienic Eva

After the rough bridge from Trinidad the day before, Grenada seems to be very welcoming. Our Anchorage was located right hand from the entrance to the Port of St. George’s, in front of the beautiful Grand Anse Beach. To reach the Dinghy Dock at the Port it takes approximately a 5 min ride.

When you approach the city of St. George’s you clearly see the influence of the colonialism. Left hand up on a hill you see the remaining of an old fort. Some buildings look like time stand still and it is colorful everywhere.

On our first visit, Uwe showed us the local fruit marked, some grocery stores and explains the average prices and exchange rates. From Grenada, up north, you can pay everywhere in EC, East Caribbean Dollar. The exchange rate is about 3/1 and the cost of food is quite high. The prices for local vegetables are reasonable. We plan to use as much local fruit and vegetables as possible, to run a small budget.

 

I somehow directly fall in love with Grenada. I loved the look of the buildings, the sound in the streets, and the people. But I have to confess that I also had some not that easy days. First of all my experience from sailing on wild one was always to look for the most lonely Anchorage. To go on land as less as possible. Now we found ourself in the middle of many other sailors in front of a big city. As you can imagine water quality was not the best but at least miles better than in Trinidad.

Next was, I didn’t get a long easy with my shipmate Martha. As she and I was the total opposite of each other often I didn’t feel comfortable. On top, a group of three is always not easy. Quickly after the first few days, I found my self in the position of the outlaw and felt constantly attracted from Martha’s very big Ego.

So it happens that one day as Martha and I was for shopping, that I speak out pretty clear what anoyes me. The air between us becomes extremely thin so that I made thoughts about leaving the boat. It then happens that Martha’s phone gets stolen and also the captain complained about some of her behavior. I felt so sorry for her, that I apologized deeply the next morning with the hope that we have a chance to start over.

The differences Martha and I had can be described very well in two words – hygienic Eva! Me in person a very organized, more overplayed and tidy person (a hygienic Eva) VS. an unplanned, chaotic person with manors like in student flat sharing, were you absolutely only care for your stuff. Clearly, this could not work. On a boat, with tiny space, this can cause very bad experiences. So how to deal with it? I decided to wait the month and give myself a good time frame to avoid acting while over reacting.

As I already started to look out for new boats, I read a good advice. Speak out clearly. Also, I focused on the arrival of Uwe’s daughter at the beginning of November. I expected that a fourth person on board will develop a change. As after the visit of Uwe’s daughter and the arrival of his wife only two weeks was in between I started to keep this in mind and stay with my positive view. I don’t want to spend a bad time constantly feeling anger. Also, I thought I maybe should see this situation as challenging for my self to speak out quicker and not to accept everything. With this in mind, I felt better.

One evening we had the chance to go attend a full moon party. A live band played some reggae cover music, most Bob Marley but sadly there were not enough people to make this evening a historical bomb as a party, but anyway I was one of the first that hit the dance floor. As I have not been out for dancing a very long time I really enjoyed the music and the dancing. I could imagine perfectly what it must be a nice atmosphere if there would have been more people, especially locals.

Full moon party

As there were many other sailors on that Anchorage was we were, it does not take long until we get in touch with some. I guess the most specific one was a guy on the boat next to us. The name of the boat was „Sven“, so I guess he might a German citizen. As he was somehow so specific, we didn’t really talk with him, so I only can guess. His boat was approximately a 10m monohull boat and not in the best condition. The interior and equipment we imagine as very basic, as Sven did his daily shower each day outside on the deck – naked. He grabbed some saltwater with a bucket an empty the bucket while standing below it. In the morning and afternoon regularly he takes a seat in on the mast and just looked around. His overall visual impression you can imagine like Tom Hanks in the movie where he gets lost on an island for four years. Seven definitely needs a haircut. But he was a friendly guy, always waving and smiling, and bravely delivered something to speak about while we sit at ours sundowners.

Another couple that we met was Conny and Marcel on their boat Marielle. Their hat a 2.5 year old sun Gino, which I really liked. They was super nice and friendly, and also the boat was very nice. A 38ft lagoon catamaran and brand new. So the interior looked so new and luxury, very impressive. We spend one or two evenings together and I hoped we will met them again during our trip. The handed the card of a German couple to me, who obviously live already my dream. Office on a boat. I definitely had to get in touch with them.

What I can say is that these sailing people are a specific group of people. Obviously, there are rules, behaviors, events, and locations that everybody knows and where it is common to meet. As from my point of view, it was quite a lot of people who are joining this lifestyle I get the impression that the catamaran sailor is more like the camper drivers. And in the middle of so many catamarans, I somehow felt a little like on a German camping space. I don’t know how to describe this image properly but the German readers will understand.

After two weeks we lift the anchor and started to sail. First destination the Isle de Ronde, what was 15 see miles from Grenada. We hadn’t any wind why we made most of the way on motor. But it was good to had off to new spaces. The Isle de Ronde is a small island without people. There is an Anchorage, for stay overnight and a guide promised that it is a nice snorkeling. On our way we had to pass an area in Grenada that is a protected marine life area. We stopped by for a quick snorkeling to see the Falken figures that lay here on the ground. I really enjoyed the snorkeling and for the first time I saw an Oktopus swimming by. The figures was impressive and I decided that I have to practice more diving.

The Isle de Ronde sadly was not the promised super snorkeling spot, but anyway it was a beautiful evening here. Next stop is Carriacou where we plan to declare out from Grenada and then head north to St Vincent and the Grenadines. Let’s go!

Trinidad & Tobago, Jabulo and I

After a short visit at home my new adventure started in Oktober. Plan so far: Sailing a Katamaran for 6 month in the Caribbean sea.

Ready to take off

Uwe, the captain of Jabulo and I met like on a blind date at the airport in Frankfurt. Uwe around 65 years old with approximately 100 years of sailing experience is the perfect image of a friendly captain with a good heard.

After a flight from 10 hours from Frankfurt to Tobago, a second flight from Tobago to Trinidad and a car drive from 1 hour, we finally arrived at Peaks Yacht Service, where Jabulo was on land for repairs.

Jabulo, a Dean Katamaran with 44 ft. Is an impressive vessel. My cabin was more like a princess chamber. Big bed from 140m, separate private toilet, and far enough space in a bunch of chaps.

Our third crew member was Martha, a 26 year old social worker from Germany, with polish roots. Even as each one of us was very different we made a good team.

The first week we stayed on land, clean and repair the boat and did the preparing shopping tours. In week two we got Jabulo into water and stayed at the Peaks pier for ongoing repairs. We desperately waited the water maker to become complete. Trinidad times works way different then german working persons time.

Even if we was in a good company we hardly could wait until we finally will leave Trinidad. One good company was Mike with his ship Lady Gray. Mike had Sam and Tailor on board and planed to go in the same direction as ours. They left from Trinidad on a Sunday and our plan was to follow on Monday. But as already mentioned, Trinidad workers time is way different then in Germany. The technical who should finish our water maker didn’t finish his job and also didn’t appear the next day. Also the guy who should finish the cushions was late and in the end it was Wednesday the 17th as we finally declared out from the Trinidad immigration and customs.

Happy we visited the duty free shop to buy some rum and wine. The next situation I want to remark as wonderful example how I experienced the local people in Trinidad. After we had chosen our products, the women in the shop wanted to pack everything into a plastic bag. I told her that we don’t want the plastic bag. The explained to me that she have to ensure that oubstuff is in a plastic bag, as this was a rule from the authorities and four cameras watching her. I turned around to the cameras and speak to the invisible authorities behind, that we don’t want to use the astic bag because they harm the environment and that we brought our own bags with purpose. Maybe the women was touched by my words and it turned out that she had the stuff without a astic bag to us. Wow I was so touched, get gose skin and felt a little tear in my eye. Fantastic! So friendly and nice.

Overall I experienced the Lokal people very nice. I saw a real gentleman like you imagine one on the streets of New Orleans, super nice stuff in a store who enlightened our day with a self made fruit smoothie, the coolest taxi drivers ever and handsome people on the local fruit market.

As we had to sail up to 15 hours we decided that it might be a good idea to fill the tank of our vessel to the maximum. On our approach to the pier the captain announced that their is a problem with the engine. The line from the dingi was hanging down and as we drove our engine backwards, it end up in the propeller of our vessel.

This is definitely one of the worst case scenarios that you could experience as owner of a ship. In worst case the complete propeller had to be taken of the ship. To do this you need to take the vessel out of water. Most of the time this is done by a big crane and it is expensive. After the captain and Ean, a friendly sailor that lived two boats next to mine, spend approximately 1.5 hours in water with googles and tried to get the rope out of the engine, we decided to go to plan b, a diver.

20 min later a diver comes to our ship and after another 1.5 hours of work the rope was out of the propeller. So the next morning should now be the final day of leaving Trinidad.

The forecast does not sound very nice. About 22 knots of wind. I already woke up in the night as the wind blows strong and closed the window in my room. But at six in the morning the weather doesn’t look too bad. Quickly we lift up the dingi and it was a very good feeling finally to pull the rope that bounded us to the mooring in the harbour.

Not far after we left the harbour the sky turned more into gray. For me it was clear that the look of the sky and the look of the water shows all signs of a more rough see. Even if we three never have performed as sail crew together the lift of the mainsail runs quite smoothly.

I have to confess that if it would have been my boat, I had returned to the harbour after 40 minutes of sailing. Reason was that I detected the emergency window broken. The emergency window is a window near the door in the salon. The purpose of the window is that you can swim out of the ship if it turns upside down. Broken in that case means there is a whole in the bottom of your boat and each time the waves rushes that high, water jumps into your boat.

In my imagination, I saw the window already fully opened and us three wiping water in buckets out of the boat. The captains plan try to place some screws into the window sounds crazy for me and I was afraid that we won’t be able to close the window again if it opens. The current situation was that the window opens to the outside and currently remain closed cause the grip of rubber gum that normally avoid the water to come through. But the captains plan worked out and we somehow managed to place two screws in the window and then could fix it with some cable.

But anyway our first sail should stay far away from boring. The yesterday’s forecast turned out to be pretty precise and quickly we found ourself in something like 22 – 25 knots of wind, 2 – 3 Meter high waves and a sky that switches between light gray, darker gray ish and gray-gray ish. Luckylie I was the only person on board that saw this condition as not 100% perfect and also sometimes a little scary.

The good thing in all of this is the fact that running on 9 knots of speed we would reach Grenada in approximately 6 – 7 hours.

I didn’t expected our first trip to be one of remarkable as somewhere after the magic half way mark a school of dolphins passed or way. They swam nearly 15 min with us. This was the perfect situation to give the new video equipment a try. I run to get the gopro and screamed friendly into the direction on the dolphins. It is just amazing to see how easy the swim next to the boat and top its speed. In the water their color was something like lite with gray sprinkles, and they also had young ones in their group. In formation they jumped out of the waves and back into and it’s seem like a game or competition to be faster as the boat.

Sadly my try to get them on video failed, but Martha got one short shot.

After the dolphins disappeared the weather become more rough and I saw it as a challenge to prepare our portion of bread for us. Challenge because the skipper warned me that most people become sea sik while they are somewhere down in the ship. I had a few flaw moments but nothing serious. For the bread this time I added some olive oil and asked my self how the taste might be.

As the same become even more rough, I got the chance to test my waterproof jacked that I bought just for this trip. Somehow I thought that at least in this moment the jacket has a value. Finally after six hours of sailing we reached St. Gorge in Grenada.

Sri Lanka Colombo to Tangalle

Going to Sri Lanka was not on my bucket list but reading some articles and blog posts about the country I looked forward to my adventure.

My arrival in Colombo was late in the evening and so I had to stay overnight in a hostel nearby. The hostel was nothing special and even if the stuff was friendly it is not worth talking more about it.

Next morning I headed to Fort Main Station in Colombo and take a train to Matare. From Matara to Tangalle by Tuk Tuk. That was the plan so far.

How to describe the atmosphere in Sri Lanka? I would say like it is how I imagine India to be. It’s loud, chaotic, dirty but also colorful, ordered in its own chaos, friendly people and curious eyes watching you everywhere.

The climate in Sri Lanka is very special and rare, as you have eighter on the west side or on the east side perfect weather conditions. From September to March is the best time to visit the west side and from April to September is the best time to visit the east side. Best time means you won’t have a lot of rain.

As I’m not a fan of rain but it was April I decided to stay somewhere in the middle between west and east, and as I wanted to stay near the sea, I choose south as the area to stay. When you go south from Colombo you will hear the name Galle and Matara as cities that are more well known. As I prefer places that are not that well know, I thought Tangalle might be a good choice and has options to all sides. Tangalle is around 45 min drive to east from Matara.

Out of Borneo I did a research to find a place to stay and was a bit surprised that all I found on Google Maps was very pricey and doesn’t look like places that I like. Many Hotels, Resorts or more luxury looking Accommodations. I end up with Ravenalla Homestay. The Homestay was located on a very small road next to the main road. The road ended at near the Homestay, so I expected the place to be very quiet. As far as Google Maps was informative, it looked like that the Homestay was directly located at a nice beach. The Pictures on Google Maps looked promising so I wanted to check it out.

I arranged with the owner that I will pass by his place while I’m on the way to my accommodation. Just I case I had booked a place nearby. From experience I had learned that it is always a good idea, to book something close by for one to three days and then check out the area to find a place to stay longer.

The train ride was nice as you could see a lot from the country and the train follows the coastline. In the train, I found the typical company from other backpackers. A group of four Australians that visit Sri Lanka for 3 weeks, a young British woman who had sold everything, left flat and home behind and had no idea where she will be in a 6-month future and a young man which I accidentally add to the young lady as the boyfriend. Later we figured out that they were not related to each other. A bit surprising for me was the high interest from the men around me. As I was the one from the foreigner group which had the longest trip, I could feel the curious looking eyes on me more and more. As the last other tourists left the train, a group of 4 men sitting next to me started talking with me. I figured out that one of them was the officer from the train. Another one was station chief from Matare. They started to ask me a lot of questions and obviously were very surprised that I travel alone as women. They was fascinated from my blue eyes and looked at me like they never have seen blue eyes in the real life ever before. The officer of the train then ask me if he can get my telephone number and that was the point where it was a bit too much for me. Luckie, it was not far to Matara anymore and I felt released when I could get out of the train. I didn’t feel like in danger but I was a bit confused by such a lot of attention.

Out of the Train, I took a Tuk Tuk into the direction to Tangalle. The driver was easy and nice and I felt safe even if I have to say that traffic in Sri Lanka is totally crazy. As we were close to Tangalle there was a man on a motorbike that whistles into our direction and then started to follow us. Quickly I figured out that this was the owner of the Ravenala Homestay. I wanted to check the condition of the Homestay and as we arrived there I directly fall in love with the place. It was such a sweet little home and same as I had expected, the street was quiet and far away from the normal tourist hassle.

The owner told me that we can try to arrange that I directly can stay at his place instead of waiting two days, as he knows the owner of my already booked accommodation. I had to pay a low fee but in the end, all worked out good.

From the first day I felt like being a part of the Ravenalla Homestay family, as the owner and his family was so nice to me and the homestay was in the heard of a little Village where only local people lives. Supun, the owner of the homestay joined me to walk down to the beach. The beach is around 20m to the left of the homestay. You had to walk down some stairs and then find yourself on one of the most beautiful beaches that I ever have seen. I was so impressed that I was not able to talk anymore. Just standing there, watching around as I saw an eagle in the air. I looked over to Supun and he also pointed his finger into the direction of the eagle. In this moment the eagle starts to rush down from the sky and touch into the water. As he came back up into view we could see the fish he could in his claws. It was like a movie scene and not only me was impressed. Supun and I smiled and from that moment on it was clear that we will have a very nice time during my stay.

The Homestay was very simple. My room had a king size bed, A/C, a separate bathroom, a little terrace. To the opposite of my room was another room that was identical. The two terraces were separated by a little wall. A little kitchen was next to my room on the right-hand side. The kitchen was equipped with a fridge, stove with oven, a kitchen sink, and some cupboards. It was simple but functional. I looked forward to having the possibility to cook myself again. Supun showed me a little plate that he fixed into the coconut tree next to my terrace. Each day a family of squirrels came by and looked for food in the plate. Everywhere around the house, it was possible to watch a bunch of animals. The lived as close as you can describe them as a wild neighborhood. A couple of peacocks lived two doors next to my Homestay and every morning I could watch the male one doing his dance on the roof of the house next to mine.

A few days later Supun offers me to visit a temple nearby. The temple was called the rock temple as it was built into a mountain. On our way to the temple, we passed by a special tree. Special was the tree as a holy flower grows on it. As far as I had understood the flower is the Buddhist flower. I don’t know the real name and just can describe the color as dark pink apricot color. The middle of the flower looked a little bit like a mouth with waving tentacles that want to make you believe that this flower is harmless. The flower was not dangerous at all but if I had to make a dangerous flower to look harmless, then this flower would match my imagination.

Next what was special on this tree was that it was the home of countless flying dogs. Flying dogs are way bigger then bat’s and make much more noise. They have their most active time in the early evening, what makes them hang around in the time when we pass by. With their wings, they flutter air around themselves, what looks alike somehow breathing. Their eyes are big and round like buttons, but you are not sure if they look at you in specific cause there are so many up in the tree.

After watching the flying dogs for a while we walk back to the street where a man sold fresh fish. Behind his stand, there was a big varan in the grass. The varan knows the days when the fisherman is around, and the fisherman knows the varan also. When the fisherman cut the fish and had some leftovers, he throws it for the varan. So the varan is happy, cause he gets food, and the customers from the fisherman are happy, cause they can join this attraction. Me the varan makes speechless. Like a living dinosaur he lays in the grass and you just can imagine how strong and probably also fast he is when he really wants to move.

Our next stop was a local market, and here the cliche how you imagine an oriental marked look like becomes a perfect match. Homegrown Tobacco, Betelnuts, Hemp strings, Herbs, Herbs, Herbs, and a lot of people. I was to overwhelmed as to take the chance and buy some vegetables but I knew that I will have more than this possibility to see and visit a marked like this.

So we headed to the Rock Temple. The Rock Temple is a temple that is builded into a mountain. On 4 different levels of the mountain caves was builded into the stone. Inside the caves very old wall paintings explain the story and life of Buddha to you. Sleeping Buddha figures in huge dimensions lies in the caves and each cave displays a specific part of Buddha’s story. This gets visible by the sourounding figures that you find in the cave as well and it finds its glorious peak in a group of people that lokked like an army to me. This group might have been so old, that the figures was protected behind a wall of glass.

Each room had its own table to lay down flowers as gift. Walking from level to level and from room to room reminds me somehow like a walk of pain and release when you finally reach the top. The last level of the temple opens two ways to reach it. The modern stairway or the old one. I choose the old one, wholes is the wall that obviously was super old. On the top a monk speaks some holy words and a white and a yellow band was wrapped around my arm. Even if I’m not religious, directly I felt saint. At the back side of the temple a Plattform made from natural stone block opens the view wide into the country. An amazing view which makes you speak less for at least 30 min let you quickly forget all the stairs you had to climb to come here.

After the Rock Temple, we visited another temple. This temple had a very huge and tall Buddha figure. I guess the figure was approximately 100m high. In the top of the figure, you could watch through an eye of Buddha. Many people waited in a long cue to catch this holy look. Me in person I didn’t see anything but I was great to see all the people and to feel the magic everywhere around. Also, the figures and stories that were told in the surrounding buildings were impressive. Definitely worth a look.

Somehow I had the luck that each time when I visited a new country that I become a witness of a cultural happening. This should stay the same here in Sri Lanka. The Poe Days was upcomming. Poe days is a regular ceremony each full moon. But this one was a special one as it was the date of Buddhas birth. So this celebration would run on five days in a row.

First thing I learned about Poeday is a day where you should share with the poor. That is the reason why in each village the people get together and organize a booth at the street where they offer free drinks or food to all people that pass by. While you drive along the road you see everywhere people standing in a queue. The longest queue you see in at the booth that offers ice cream. I experienced a kind of rice pudding, fresh cut watermelon, drinks…and other nice stuff. All the time you stop, people chat, smile or great. It’s a very nice atmosphere.

Then the city becomes decorated. Artistically designed lamps or scenes from Buddhas live are placed around. After Sunset the city turned into a magical place cause all houses and shops decorated their front sides with lanterns and other enlightening things. Each temple shines and glows in the evening, really wonderful.

During the day in each village, a parade is happening. In the parade, you see ornate created paper trees, glorious candy dancers, and funny big figures. What I did not understand is why the parades are happening directly on a street where still cars are driving. As the cars were more in a traffic jam, that could drive fluently, the smell becomes somehow very intense. I felt sorry for all the talented participants of the parade but I really enjoyed to watch it.

Overall I would say, Sri Lanka was a very surprising Country. People are unbelivable nice, food is very good and everywhere you run into somthing magic. If you think about to go there – do it..its definitv worth it.

KK and the tip of Borneo

Kota Kinabalu is the name of the capital city from Borneo. I arrived at the beginning of May and as usual, at this time the weather was warm, sunny and dry. Kota Kinabalu is a city with round about 200.000 inhabitants, and very well developed. For the first time in my life, I decided to take a cabin hostel for my accommodation, as my plan was not to stay in the city for a longer time. The hostel was located directly at the harbor, it was very clean, super nice stuff, friendly and easy people, great WIFI and the cabins looked like in hypersleep cabins in a spaceship.

4 cabins in the room, each round about 1,20m x 2,10m x 1,20m. To get into your cabin you had to open a sliding door on the side and climb up a little ladder. The inside of the cabin was stuffed with a big mirror, ambilights, usb and cable charger, a small table, A/C, mattress and bedsheets. I felt like a little child which has built a cave when I was in the inside of the cabin. The first night I didn’t sleep that well, cause some young people speak and act outside, and the walls was not very thick. But the second day I bought some earplugs and a sleep mask, and the next days I slept super well.

The entrance area was stuffed with a big table and many charging possibilities for my mac book. From the table, you had a view over the harbor bay and the promenade that were in the direct frontline of the harbor.  From here it was very nice to work as you could enjoy the sunset in the evening and during the daytime, you were not affected by the heat outside.

But overall KK is a city, and I don’t like to stay in cities for too long. So I started to look out for a more secluded area. My tactic to look for good places is most of the time Google Maps, as it opens the possibility to see how much buildings are around, how big the streets are, and if you have access to cool beach places. Spoiled from my stay in Thailand and Indonesia, I was astonished that all the places that I found on the map were either not really lonely or very expensive. Last but not least I found a nice place, that gave me the impression that it might be a fit. 

Life is miraculous sometimes. For me, in person, I found myself often in a situation where a specific topic runs around in my head, and then I run into people or situations that match with this topic. Same here. On Nusa Penida, I saw on the day of my leaving a Poster from the Trash Hero Organisation.  For those who don’t know the Trash Hero Organisation a short explanation. The Trash Hero Organisation is a voluntary group of people who organize Beach Cleanups and educate the people while they meet at the cleanups. The Organisation is founded by Roman Peter from Switzerland. As he stayed for a long period of time in Thailand and couldn’t get along with all the plastic trash at the beach where he lives, he decided to start to clean up the beach. Quickly others were affected from his action and today there are 52 different chapters of the Trash Hero Group, located mostly in south-east Asia but also in Europe.  

The miracle for me was, that while I was looking for a new accommodation, I accidentally get in touch with Monica Chin. Monica is the leader of the Trash Hero Chapter of Borneo. Her father owns a little beach bungalow place round about 1,5 h drive from KK. Sadly the place was closed she told me, but quickly she agreed to a meeting with me. Monica is a mother of two children and one of the most enlightening persons I ever have met in my life. She must have a fusion drive instead of a heard or something like this, as she always runs on 150%. She is one of the people who simply spread out positivity when she is around and fully dedicated to her engagement at the Trash Hero Group. 

Not enough that she cut off some of her rare time to meet me, no! She invited me into her house and offered me to stay with her and her family. Sadly there was not a stable internet connection available, which is necessary for me to work, so I had to deny her friendly offer. But during our talk and time we spend together I learned a lot about Trash Hero, and I more and more become aware that at least for me it is necessary to take action on this topic. 

As I could not find an interesting location nearby, I decided to make a trip to the tip of Borneo, which is the most north-west tip of the island. Totally different as in Thailand, the possibilities of how to travel are not that developed. So I had to take a shared Minibus from KK to the Tip of Borneo and it was a 3,5-hour drive. The accommodation that I choose was a kind of a jungle camp. The owner told me on the phone that they have WIFI in the restaurant at the beach, so I gave it a go. 

Honestly I have to confess that I was dissapointed from the place. Overall it was not bad but from my point of view it was a bit overpriced. The jungle camp offered 3 different types of accommodations. A long house, witch is mainly a big house build out of bamboo, and wood and seperations what you can imagine as „room“. Inside of the „room“ was a wooden bench, with a dirty mattress. bedsheet and a mosquito net, a power plug and a lamp. Thats it. Price 15€ a night without breakfast. The second type of accommodation was the same from the way of standard but instead of a long house you hat your „room“ in a kind of hut, made of bamboo and wood. Cost 25€ a night. Third possibility was Bungalows with own bathroom, and more solid walls, nice furniture and clean. Cost 45€ a night. The owner of the place won’t give any discount for long stay. The restaurant was 15 min car drive away, and there were a shuttle service 3 times a day.  

When you don’t like spiders you really had to get over your borders to spend a quite night here. The mattress and sheet were so dusty that I decided to keep some clothes on the night. Toilettes was made as compost toilettes and one shower house for all people of the long house. After sunset, there was just very little lights in the garden and on the way to the toilettes. As the longhouse was built on stalks in the mangroves, you hear frogs and many other animals after sunset creeping around. I like that, even if I was a bit frightened.  For a price of 5€ the night I would not complain at all but 15€ for a dirty mattress, and absolutely no comfort. I don’t know!

The next morning I woke up pretty early. The sun was just rising, and I enjoyed to sit in the hall in front of the longhouse, to watch the butterflies and birds doing their morning work. There was a little fog laying over the ground, and water pearls shimmered in the morning light, as I met a man in the room. We greet friendly and after a short who are you, he told me, very proud, that he works in the reforestation program of Borneo. Impressive I thought by myself, and I ask about more details. He explained to me that the government of Borneo now decided to plant eucalyptus instead of Palm Oil Trees. „But that’s monoculture again,“ I said and „Eucalyptus ruins the soil even more“.  My impression was that he was shocked that I had something to say about it and that I obviously know about the exploitation of nature, that happens very intense especially in Borneo. Overall you can shrink our talking down to one argument from his side – money. Eucalyptus brings more money than Palm Oil. No matter what will be there tomorrow.

Aproximately one hour later, I met this man again. This time he had some friends around. A family, man, women and their, I guess 8-9 year old boy.  I greet them and then start to walk along the beach. It was one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. Wonderfull white sand, except from the little restaurant and some little houses no civilisation around and even if this beach clearly was not cleaned on regular bases, it was not so much trash on the beach. The water looked perfect and as I walked closer I get shocked. Nearly every 50cm in the water I saw big pieces of plastic and other trash swimming in the water. It was so much that I was unsure if it is a good idea to go into the water, as I might get injured from the floating suff. From one minute to the other my mind becomes very sad. Such a beautiful deserted place, at nearly the most east place on the whole island, no civilisation but trash and plastic everywhere. The amount of pieces was so huge, that I wonder where it might comes from. As this area is connected to the south chinese sea my concern was that all this plastic might be made its way from up there down to this coast and now be washed up on the shore. What I also was wonder about was, that all pieces that I saw in the water was very big and it dosen’t looked like it was there for a very long time. 

I grew up with books from Jacques-Yves Cousteau. I loved to see the colorful pictures from a world that was so far away for me that each page of these books was like treasures for me. All this astonishing creatures, this mindblowing colors for was was pure beauty. All my life I dreamed about one day to have the opportunity to go diving and see this world with my own eyes. As longer you travel in the asean area as more you become aware how big the impact of pollution through plastic is. In Europe it is simply nearly not visible but here. .

Fighting against such power and impact might look senseless I decided not to accept that the oceans will be destroyed. Honestly I believe, if the oceans die, we will die too.

But back to my stay at the tip of Borneo: it simply was not possible for me to find an affordable place to stay, that matched my needs.

As I didn’t had a motorcycle, I only could reach the most nearby area. There was some bungalows and one also had a super wifi connection but I couldn’t hit a proper deal. The owner don’t wanted to make a realistic discount and I was not willing to pay more than 15 – 20 euro per night as the bungalows standard was not worth more money. I was kind of astonished cause all bungalows doesn’t looked booked. So I expected that an offer for a fully one or two month payment might be a really good deal. Obviously I was wrong about it and to stay longer in the Longhouse was not an option for me I left the next day and headed back to KK.



In KK I decided to stay 5 days longer as I wanted to work relaxed and pick up wat I left during travel time. During the 5 days I wanted to make decisions where to go next and so my decision ended up with Sri Lanka…

Little paradise – Nusa Penida

When you want to visit Nusa Penida, you have to go to Sanur harbor on Bali. When I arrive there in the morning, it was quite chaotic and a sense of hectic was in the air. As I don’t want to wait for a long time, I take the first opportunity to get a ticket – the charge was 400.000 IDR. A guide helped me to transport my luggage to the pier where the boats are already waiting to head off. I had to climb down the stones at the pier and then walk through the water to reach the boat. The water was hard to identify as water, as the color was dark grey with an oily surface and strong smell. As the water touch my skin, it directly felt itchy. I don’t know exactly the reason for the pollution but I guess it is petrol and oil that comes from the number of boats that frequent the harbor. On the land side, you see the very typical image of Asian countries – a lot of trash on the ground and in the water. I urgently hoped that there will be a different image on Nusa Penia. Once again I felt so sorry for Bali. There are so many souls that are depending on the income from the tourist business, but I guess if there will not be a change in how the country is treated, the number of tourists will rapidly go down.

The journey by boat takes about 40min to reach Nusa Penida and on the way, you will pass Nusa Lembongan. Nusa Lembongan looks from the seaside also already very artificial, and not natural anymore. You see a huge amount of Bungalows, Restaurants, Boats and big Resorts on the beach side. I was happy that this is not my destination. On my arrival at Nusa Penida also I see a big construction in front of the harbor, that was stuffed with colorful slides and people who are rushing down into the water. The harbor itself looked pretty empty, surrounded just by some vintage looking buildings. As I had to wait for the person from my accommodation, I head over to a little cafe that was at the pier. The first thing that I noticed was that the connection of my mobile SIM card was nearly not existing. Gladly it was good enough to receive WhatsApp Messages and so I was informed that I’ll be picked up in 20 min.

Made, the owner of Abian House Nusa Penida shows up shortly and excuses himself around 20 times for being late. I in person was very happy because he was 15 min. earlier as I have expected him to be there. Directly I liked him a lot. We packed my luggage in the car and then start the ride to Abian House. Abian House Nusa Penida is located in the north of Nusa Penida, approximately 10min. behind the main village. The accommodation keeps 4 bungalows with a very high-quality equipment. Each bungalow has its own bathroom with toilet and warm water shower, king size bed, tv, and a wardrobe for your clothes. The bungalows are located in a little garden with a very beautiful design. Also in the yard is a little kitchen and a house for the reception, that also contains possibilities for sitting outside below a roof that spends shadow. The kitchen is run by his sister in law, and also his brother is always there if you need something or have a question. Besides the accommodation, the family also offers to book tours on Nusa Penida. For example, you can book a snorkeling trip or a beach tour.

Made informed me that they run the accommodation the first year, and somehow this was visible in a good matter. The whole family put a huge effort into making you feel comfortable and take care of your well-being. The motorbike they hand to me was super good quality and fun to ride. So I directly take the chance to explore a bit from the island and head to south-east in the direction of Athu Beach. I have missed this feeling of riding the motorbike since I left Koh Kood a lot. Even if some you might judge me, but riding the motorbike without a helmet is pure fun and makes you feel like Easy Rider. Just a few moments after starting the drive I found myself in breathtaking views. When you head to the east you head up a mountain, as more further you go as more breathtaking the views will be. A mix of cliffs, green and wild vegetation and the surrounding ocean makes it so beautiful. The island is not over touristic and also you will not find these oversized resorts or hotels, that destroy the natural look of the area. During your way, you pass only little villages. The villages are a mix of temples and original Bali style houses. People are sitting outside in little huts that spend shadow. When you pass they smile at you, lift their hands for greetings or shout hello. Unfortunately, this leads you to smile directly.

As my arrival was at the 12.03 I was lucky to be part of all the ceremonies around the Nyepi day. Nyepi day is comparable to our new year and also known as „silence day“. On Nypie day everywhere is silence. This mean, no electricity,  no Internet (even not on mobile), no traffic, no airplanes, no light, stay in the house, be quiet. This year Nypie day was on the 17th of March. So the full week upfront is filled with different events that are related to the Nypie day. One big event is the Ogoo Ogoo Ceremony the evening before the Nypie day. Each village creates one or more Ogoo Ogoo Figures. As the people on Bali believe in that everything in life has two sides, the good side and the bad side, the figures represent the symbol of the bad spirit. On the day of my arrival, near to my accommodation was a big ceremony where all villages come together. They meet on a big field, what you can imagine like an arena. The villages bring their Ogoo Ogoo figures, that have been created during the last six month upfront. The creation of the figures is a place where especially the children of the villages spent time together. The big advantage of this process is to align their ideas of creativity to one big goal. The Ogoo Ogoo figure has to be impressive, colorful and artistic. Then in the arena, the figures will be presented. The figures are connected to a square made out of bamboo, what makes it able to carry the Ogoo Ogoo figures. The bamboo square will be carried by the young men of the village. It is an honor to be one of the people to carry the figure and represent it in the arena. But its hard work, when you imagine that the figures are quite heavy and temperatures in the sunlight are very high. These young men have to be strong and resistant to pass through this whole procession. And also it is a competition for the villages to create the most impressive Ogoo Ogoo figure. The reason for this first ceremony, where the Ogoo Ogoo figures will be presented in a dance is, to select one of the figures as the main figure for the ongoing ceremonies.

The day upfront the Nypie day finally is then the last and most impressive ceremony. The Ogoo Ogoo figures will be carried through the village, surrounded by all people. The Ogoo Ogoo figures make their way up to one end of the village and then back to the other end of the village. The ceremony starts after sunset. All young girls walk in front of the Ogoo Ogoo figures, carrying a self-made torch and give the impression of a vanguard. Followed by a group of musicians who played an up-tempo rhythm, pushing a sound that fills the air with energy. Then the Ogoo Ogoo figures take place, followed by another group of musicians. During the walk, the atmosphere becomes more and hotter. For me in person the walk was breathtaking. I was guided by a man from the village, who uses the time during the walk to explain me some parts of their religion in more detail. I love it the hear this kind of story, so I listen with a huge amount of curiosity.

At the end of the ceremony, when the Ogoo Ogoo figures are on their way back, the dances are going more and wilder. Finally, the dances become so wild, that the figures start to fall apart. People begin to applause and scream. The young men who carried the figures start to attack the figures, instead of guiding them. All ends at the moment when the figure is heavily destroyed. The broken figures will be followed by the whole village, but the upfront sound becomes more silent. Approximately at 23:30 all people start to return home, sitting in small groups outside talking, jump on their motorbikes and look forward to the upcoming silence. It was really a happening, that you didn’t attend each day. I loved it. Thank you so much Nusa Penida for having me there.

The Nypie day itself runs for me in person very quickly and I really enjoyed the silence during the day. As you might imagine, me as a digital person, run the day before in a kind of alarm mode, looking on the upcoming disappearing from the WIFI. In the night of return after the Ogoo Ogoo ceremony, I was frozen while driving the motorbike. My body must have run in a direct protection function and kept me sleeping until 10:30. Unbelievable! As I get up, I run into two very nice guys from Catalan. Both had huge traveling experience was kind of laid back persons. We start talking and minutes later they invited me for joining their self-cooked food, one of them just prepared. This one runs a restaurant in Barcelona and he really put some magick into this meal. This is one of the moments where you feel yourself so blessed and thankful, for this wonderful experiences you make while traveling. People are just nice! As I felt to sleep after the meal, I have to confess that except the nice night sky I have nothing more to report about.

One day I booked a snorkeling trip to the Manta Bay. A few days upfront a video about this point runs through the social streams. In the video you see a diver, that dives through heavily polluted water, full of plastic bags and other trash. People already told me that this super heavy pollution does only appear if streamings from the direction of the north are pushing the water further the island. The only place where I have never seen comparable clear waters was on the Maldives. But there also was trash. Not that amount that you saw in the video, but too much from my point of view. The underwater live at Nusa Penida is very beautiful and also still in a good condition. Even more, I hope that people quickly understand what kind of treasure this is today.  Colorful and mysterious the corals enlight their beautiful shine. A variety of fish dance around you, while you explore the region. There is so much to see that you can’t stop watching.

The Manta Ray is from my point of view one of the most impressive and beautiful inhabitants of the ocean. Gigantic and untoppable in their elegance, they sail through the water, running in their circles while feeding. Graceful they move their wings up and down, and it is like an attending of a silent ballet. When they pass your way, close to you it makes you stop breathing. Their faces look full of wisdom and peace, direct to you and you feel that you should have respect. Honestly, I was lucky that day, cause my boat trip started late, to see some Mantas anyway. There was around 4 in the bay and later we met some more. But as there was a bunch of boats in the bay, also a lot of people was in the water. The see was a bit rough and in the water, you had to make your way through trash and jellyfish. My impression was that the Mantas was kind of stressed. Also, I could not imagine how they should avoid eating a bunch of plastic while feeding. It is really not about talking anymore, it is definitely about doing in this days. Otherwise, our grandchildren will not see the beauty of the ocean anymore.

As Christal Bay is the only one that is easy to reach and nice to swim and snorkel, I decided to switch location from Abian House to Krisna Homestay.  I landed they’re accidentally heading out for a good WIFI connection. I directly fall in love with the place as I figured out that the sun of the family, was into web development as well. He showed me a Web application that he ha build with is a friend, containing a booking system for the ferry ticket from and two Bali. penidago.com is the web address and I want highly to recommend using the app. The ticket price is solid and not based on the mood of the person you met at the harbor and your own will to make a good deal. The crew of the Krisna Guesthouse is super friendly. The just opened up a little restaurant that is connected to the homestay. I liked the food, even if it was pretty western. The sister of the house borrowed me a traditional dress so that I was propper dressed for taking part at the ceremony, I found flowers on my bed after arrival, and coffee was already finished if I just came down to the restaurant in the morning. The People are just amazing with how much attention and kindness they professionally take care that you be fostered as much as possible.

As to renew my visa was more expensive as to fly to another country and the not very stable WIFI forced me to the decision to leave Nusa Penida. I decided to go to Borneo, as so many people have recommended going there. I booked a flight to KL and from KL to KK (Kota Kinabalu). Then on my last day, I was gifted with a very nice experience. In the morning I talked to Volker who also was a guest in my stay. I persuaded him to spend the day with me. So we jumped on our bikes and drive in direction west, to visit the Christal Bay.  We go for snorkeling and this time we take the left side of the bay. Behind all Boats was on an anchor, we found a nice area full of corals where we swam around a while. On our way back from Christal Bay we stopped for lunch at Krisna House. I told Volker about a sign that I have seen a lot of times while driving to Krisna House, but never followed. As he agreed to go with me, we followed the sign in direction of the XXX-bay. (I don’t name it with purpose.). The road quickly changed from solid to more rocky after we left the main road. Passing a few little villages the road becomes tinier and on one point we couldn’t go on by bike. We decided to take a look by feet and was surprised by a man who comes by. The man asks us without English words where to go, and we described our destination. He offered us to guide us and one moment later we found ourselves on a small footpath through a cliff. It was pretty hot and the way slightly but definitely goes down more and more. The last piece of the way was very tiny at the edge of the cliff until we finally reach the desired bay. Except from the three sun of the man who was surfing in the bay, there was just one boat with some people guiding their snorkeling. Beautiful white sand, crystal clear water, waves on the right side and smooth waters on the other side, this bay was simply a dream.  The man offers us to catch a coconut for us, climb up the tree and opened minutes later the fresh coconut in an artistically move with his knife for us. I think there is not much more in the world that is so refreshing, energizing and delicious as a fresh coconut. There I sat down in the sand, next to this man, watching the pure beauty of this place and simply felt blessed again. We decided to jump into the water and the scenery that we are jumping into was just amazing. Fissured canyons full of color and live appears in front of us. From shallow to more and deeper water it was the place that my vision from an intact coral reef matches most so far. Simply beautiful and entertaining is this world that we understand so little, with all its shimmering, impressive inhabitants, their social life, and tasks they have to fulfill. I can’t imagine people who don’t understand by pure watching how fragile this world is. Even less I can understand why our world runs as it runs. I should write a history book and name all the great people who are in charge today. So that I will be written down somewhere who was the people in charge that are responsible destroying our planet. Even Mars will not save you! And your money eighter! But to end this story with something cultuEverythingeyting has two sides and stay positive thinking!

8 days Canggu – Bali

Visiting Canggu – Bali was the first time during my journey that I don’t like a place. My expectations were filled with all the Facebook pictures and comment that people publish about the area. Reality shocked me!. My experience with Canggu was over touristic, noisy, lots of pollution, crazy traffic and not much left from old Bali. Many hip cafes and many European people. Maybe it was not the right place for a non-surfer like me. The only thing that I liked was the people. The people of Bali are extremely friendly and open. Everyone who I talked to liked to explain about their culture and ceremonies. Driven by this image I decided to go to Nusa Penida, which is a smaller island in the south of Bali.

My accommodation was also terrible. The house in villa style was pretty nice, but the condition of the rooms – pretty dirty. Wifi was good and so I decided not to make my stay more complicated and get along with it for this 8 days. Name of the stay was Sunset Villa Bali

One day I did a motorbike trip to the Pura Taman Ayun Temple in the north of Bali. Driving needed full attention all the time and the air pollution was so heavy that I decided to wear a mask from that day on.

Another day I did a trip to one of the nearby beaches that I expected to be not so crowded. On my arrival, I had to face a heartbreaking view. A river that leads into the ocean was full of trash. On the surface of the river was a big area full of white foam and in the river was people swimming. Also, the beach was full of trash and the color of the sand in combination with the rough see was sad to view.

Later in the evening, I thought that this impression might be a single one and decided to go to another beach the next day. But the image was the same. I felt so sorry and sad about it and for me, it’s clear that I won’t visit Bali again. I hope that one day it will be recovered and that the people learn quickly how to handle the plastic trash and understand how valuable their culture and environment is.

I decided not to visit Ubud, cause the traffic was so heavy and stressful. Ubud is also very touristic place so I was sure not to find what I aim for. I used the time for intensive work, good sleep and to use my days as effective as possible. That was a good decision, cause then they passed by quickly.

On the 8th of March, I found myself at 11 in a car on my way to Nusa Penida. Hopefully there it will be more like I expected Bali.

3 weeks in Kuala Lumpur

Last three weeks, I spent in Kuala Lumpur. My Airbnb stay was in an area called Petaling Jaya, Bandar Utama. The house where I stayed was very nice, calm and clean. I have to confess that I have nearly nothing seen from the city. The reason behind was the unbelievable announcement that I have made it into phase two from the Google Developer Challenge, and now I got a scholarship for the frontend developer degree at Udacity. The message reaches me on 14.02 and I could not imagine a better Valentinstag day present. I think it takes me four days until I really believe it. So I spent most of the time working and learning.

After 3 months in more rural areas, it was pretty refreshing to touch down here in KL. KL is surprisingly modern. So, I had the luck after 3 months the first time to order a pizza. While exploring the 1 Utama Shopping Mal the next day, I was able to buy all things that was on my list. Completely European standard like, it was no problem to buy milk, cheese, and even avocado. Yeah!

Pizza
Pizza!!

Quickly I felt like home and I think this was a missing feeling for a while. My visit to the center of KL was super short. I take the Mt to an Area where I want to visit a flee market. Riding the MRT was a step into a science fiction. So modern and clean. The view is amazing from the train and makes you, even more, believe that you are somewhere in a nearby future. Impressive skyscrapers everywhere and the used space for buildings looks like I imagine the US.

I’m not the shopping person anymore and as I step out the MRT train, I simply was overwhelmed by all the mals and shops. Without a clear vision what to see I just walk around a bit. Then I had to find out KL is not made for walking and it’s a good thing when you have a pretty strong immune system. Outside you walk in roundabout 35° C, and in all shops are cooled down by A/C. So, you have constantly changed between very hot and pretty cold. The bashing impressions from all the labels, shops was so annoying to me, that I decided not to stay in the city. Even if I have not made it upon the Petrona Towers. I thought to myself, I can go another day, but it ends up that I was not motivated enough to go to the city again.

Malaysia is a very interesting country also for a business purpose. For foreigners, it is very easy to open up a company and with its territorial Tax system, you did not pay any tax on income that you make outside of Malaysia. Also, you did not pay tax on your own salary. I will investigate here some time to find out more details. As a European citizen, you can stay in Malaysia 3 month without vias. And if you are interested in business they just launched a very interesting programme for startups, that gives you the opportunity to get a 4-year visa with a breeze.

As I was ashamed to report that the only thing I have seen from KL is my desk on one Sunday I go and visit the Batu Caves. The Batu Caves are a collection of Hindu Temple that is located in the north of Kuala Lumpur. The preferred option to get around for the Malaysian people is to take a „Grab“. Grab is something similar to UBER and I really was impressed how good it works. So, I „grab“ a car in the morning and go to the Caves. When you arrive at the main gate, you directly be caught by the spiritual wave that lingers above the area. A multicultural mix of all nationalities crushes into each other at the base of the 250 steps you have to go, to reach the caves itself. To walk upstairs in the head reminds me like to go on a spiritual walkway.  Like the steps were made to torture you until you reach eternity, you walk upstairs slowly, and just step by step. Wild monkeys cross your way, and bag for food. A waterfall on one side of the steps gives you the impression as it was heaven sent, cause the sprinkling water give you a little refreshing.

When you reach the last step, the impressive first Cave comes into your view. A mix of mindblowing nature, composed of holy shrines and colorful figures. Sadly some of the buildings inside the cave were under construction so that their colors were not so good to see, but a look up into the top of the cave compensate all this in a minute. The top of the Caves I guess round about 100m high had holes that makes you able to see the sky above. Rough stone walls that were covered by light green moss, and white areas where corrosion from water and time was visible. Breathtaking.

Sadly I didn’t know anything about the Hindu religion, but in another Cave, a little bit further was an active ceremony on the run. I watched it for a while, trying to get how it works, but I don’t want to behave unpolite and disturb the people, so I stay with watching. Some people had peanuts with them. The peanuts quickly were seen by a group of monkeys that started to run down from the top of the caves. Impressively lightweight they climb down and after one of them has ensured that there is no danger, the chief of the group steps out. Even if the monkey was just 50cm tall, he had impressive muscles and look very strong. Also, I was able to catch a monkey mother with her child in a moment of breastfeeding. Yes, it was worth a visit.

One thing what I don’t like was, that no matter what you want to do in KL, you won’t go by feet. Even if you just need to go to the next Shop, you need at least a bike, but most of the time the people in KL use Grab. On my last day, I was so ashamed cause I needed to order a Grab, to get around the block to reach the next 7-eleven and go back. That worried me a lot. I can’t understand why countries are not aiming for learning from one to each other. All these cars can’t be the right way. From my point of view, the time is up for showing well being by owning a big car.

Next stop Bali – lets see what you have 🙂

 

Why Gaafaru Atoll is worth a visit

First of all – to all native English speakers – I’m not a native speaker and my English is not perfect. But as I travel now for a longer time, more and more people ask me to write in English. So I will try. Please be so polite and avoid any shady comments. Anybody who loves to do proofreading, feel free to get in touch with me.

I don’t know how many of you are informed about the history of the Maldives Islands. Up to 2008, it was not allowed to Tourists to visit the local islands. Now in 2018 slowly the local islands are developing. Gaafaru is an island that is located approximately 1 hour by Speedboat from Male, the main capital of the Maldives. Roundabout 1000 people living on the 11 ha Gaafaru Atoll.

I get in touch with Gaafaru in 2011, as I was part of a sailing trip here on the Maldives. We run out of Sweetwater and looked desperately for help. As we arrived on Gaafaru it was a highlight for the people here. Shahid was one of first contacts at the pier and immediately offer us to fill our Sweetwater tank with 100l fresh water. We stay for some hours, was invited in his house and both parties were very interested to exchange knowledge and learn the cultural differences. As we left Gaafaru, Shahid and I exchange contact data, but sadly I miss them on the boat after I return home. After a while, I was sad that I miss this opportunity to stay in contact, so I do a research. I remember that Shahid is Teacher at the local school on Gaafaru, and the internet gives me the possibility to find a FAX number from a higher authority of all schools at the Maldives. I did a copy from a picture that we had taken that day, add an arrow to the desired person and write my contact data below the picture. This piece of paper I send by Fax. Three years later suddenly an Email from Shahid reaches me. :-

Shahid and me

Since this day, we are in constant contact. As the Maldives is a Moslem country, we talk a lot about the development of the island. For me, it was totally unexpected that the local people on the Maldives are very poor. Shahid as teacher reaches a monthly income from round about 600€ a month. This salary is a good one, compare to other jobs. Shahid is married and father of three children. During the three weeks as I was sailing on the Maldives, I have spent 150€ for cost of living. Imagine one night in one of the Resorts here about 150€ upwards per night. What I want to say is, that from all the luxury that you find in the Resorts nothing ends up at the local people. That’s not fair from my point of view, and so we think about a lot how to develop the community here on Gaafaru.

Many times we have talked about that I come around for visit. Now in 2018 we reach this goal. Like I’m a family member Shahid opens his house for me, and offer me accommodation. It was very interesting for me to see how the island has changed in this years. Gaafaru now has a new harbor and a daily Speedboat gives a very good connection to the main capital Male and the Airport. Currently, already one Hotel exists on the island and 4-5 Guesthouse are under construction. You have the possibility to order different tours like Snorkeling trip, Visit a resort, go fishing or go diving.

The underwater life here is the most amazing that I ever have seen. As I do my first dives here on the Maldives, somehow I’m ruined for all other places. The water is so clear that you have a view from approximately 30m around you. The amount of different species of fish, shells, and corals is mindblowing. On my first visit here in 2011 I was lucky to do a snorkeling trip and meet two manta rays. We swim along for 30 min. I never was more impressed by being close to an animal like on this day. The local people here are extraordinary free divers and very good fish hunters. With my visit this time, I was lucky to have the chance to join one of those fishing trips. Honestly, I always feel sorry for the fish, and I beg all of you not to hunt them. Keep in mind that this beauty is fragile and maybe one of the last places on earth where you can be a witness of such miracle. Don’t touch the corals and just watch them with awe.

Also, the trip into the Moslem culture is worth a visit. I have to confess that I in person was a bit prejudiced about the cultural differences. As I don’t speak the language and was centered in the middle of the whole family, in the beginning, I felt sometimes a little bit uncomfortable. But quickly I understand, that all family members was just worried about that I feel good, that I eat enough and that I’m safe. The care that the family members take for each other is remarkable. I wish that I can take some of this deep love with me, and spread it into our culture. Special when I go fishing with the men of the family and some friends, I felt like a princess surrounded by knights, and each of the knights would give his life to protect me. That was very impressive and somehow I liked that feeling. Even if it is a bit stereotype 🙂

Also, I have to confess that sometimes I felt like an exotic animal, while people on the street watching me. Shyness is blown away by a smile you send back, and also people are interested and start talking to you. When you pass by, they stop you to offer a piece of coconut or explain about fruits that are hanging around. There is one thing that is super typical for the Maldives culture, and that is the chewing of the Betelnut. Pieces of the Betelnut, wrapped in the leaf of the Piper betle vine and some powder of Heraparna added on putting into the mouth to chew. If you try each ingredient single the taste is strange and I would describe it like soapy, but if you combine all things together than it releases an explosion of taste that leads to a refreshing feeling. Not bad! 🙂

Betel Nut

For all people who love seafood, you will love the Maldives kitchen. Most of the foods are a little spicy and have curry added. Curry, you found in a huge range of variations. Most foods are served as one dish. The basis of the dish is pieces of flatbread that will be topped by the curry. Most of the time you found a roasted fish next to it, where you peel of pieces of the fish to your dish. Also popular is a leaf salad, that is made of a plant that grows in the yards. The look of the plant reminds me of cabbage. Eating is more than just eat, it is a way to get together and of taking care one to each other. As I’m not a fish eater I can’t say how many variations of fish are available for food but I truly can say, it is many. Also, you can expect lobster, shells, mussels, and octopus. Once again I want to remind you that this rich selection is not obvious. Please consider not to eat the beautiful creatures of the sea as chicken and cow are also available.

Family on the Maldives is a big thing. Families up to seven children are not rare and to have a big family make sense here on the Maldives. The Families most of the time lives together in one house or in houses that are very close. Decisions are bespoken with the whole family and the way how such discussions are done is fascinating. In the evening time, the family sits in the yard. If there is something to talk about than it is more like a storytelling. One person tells a story and the others are listening. After finishing the story the opposite reply their opinion. This talk goes on until you find an agreement. Argumentations you will not hear. It is common that the men go to a cafe to meet up and speak. For my understanding is this the way how community politics works.

All people I have met are very respectful, kind and friendly. The interest in other cultures is huge. I strongly believe that Gaafaru will develop to a super nice place in the next years. I’m sure I will come back and I already know some things that I will put on my bucket list then, cause they are currently not available on the island. So when you go here, and you have the possibility to bring some of the things, I’m sure people will love it.

  • Sun protection
  • Contact lense liquids
  • Tampons
  • Milk products
  • Most of the time only mobile WIFI

The following list is a collection of things that I can imagine here pretty good, but they are not available.

  • Backgammon
  • Boule
  • Kubb
  • Playing Cards
  • Ice Cafe
  • Restaurant
  • Disco
  • Cooking Class

One recommendation to all people on Gaafaru or the Maldives in general: Educate your community to litter your trash in a bin and not to the ground.

Overall big thanks to the Gaafaru community for my amazing stay. I definitely will come back soon.

 

 

Life on Gaafaru Atoll

Das erste was ich heute morgen sah, war die Nachricht eines Freundes, der mich auf die Nachrichten aufmerksam gemacht hat. In Male sei der Ausnahmezustand ausgerufen worden. Sofort war ich besorgt. Kann ich das Land noch verlassen? Was bedeutet das für mich?

Als ich nach dem Duschen jedoch die ersten Schritte nach draußen machte, schien auf Gaafaru alles beim alten zu sein. Keinerlei Hektik oder Anspannung war zu bemerken. Um 9 Uhr hatte ich eine Verabredung mit Fatma. Fatma ist (ich glaube) die Schwester von Shahidi. Sie hatte mich am Vorabend eingeladen ein spezielles Brot zu backen. Mein Interesse an der maledivischen Küche, war aufgefallen. Am letzten Abend durfte ich schon zusehen wie eine vegetarische Pastete gemacht wird. Das Rezept habe ich notiert und die Zubereitung dokumentiert.

Zunächsteinmal sollte man wissen, dass die Einheimischen Menschen auf den Malediven in einem sehr starken Kontrast, zu den Bildern die man aus den hiesiegen Ressorts kennt, leben und wohnen. Es ist auch erst seit 2008 überhaupt für Touristen erlaubt, die einheimischen Inseln zu besuchen.  Die Häuser sind einfach und Luxus sucht man hier vergeblich. Der Begriff Familie wird hier sehr groß geschrieben. Es ist üblich das Familien inklusive Onkel, Tante, Cousine und Cousin, Mutter, Vater und Kinder in einem Haus zusammenleben. Mein Freund Schahidi ist Lehrer für Mathematik und unterrichtet an der hiesiegen Grundschule. Er ist verheiratet und Vater von 3 Kindern. Sein Durchschnittseinkommen liegt bei ca. 400€. Mir wird bei meiner Ankuft ein geräumiges Zimmer mit einem separat angrenzendem Badezimmer zugewiesen. Ich möchte nicht wissen wer stattdessen ausziehen musste. Im Bad steht jedenfalls noch eine Zahnbürste auf dem Sims 🙂

Aber zurück zur (fast) vegetarischen Pastete. Es geht damit los, dass Tante gemeinsam mit den anderen Familienmitgliedern im Garten sitzend, den Weißkohl in dünne streifen schneidet. Sie hat einen Teller im Schoß und beim Plaudern wird geschnippelt. Dem Kohl folgen zwei Karotten und auf einen weiteren Teller wird eine Zwiebel, ein paar frische Curry Blätter und eine Chilli geschnippelt. Nachdem diese Arbeit getan ist, gehts in die Küche. Die geschnippelten Gemüse kommen in eine große Schüssel. Nun wird ein Packet Instant Nudeln hinzugefügt, sowie eine Dose Tunfisch. Mama hilft derweil ca 12 Eier aufzuschlagen. Es wird geredet und geknetet und die Eier mit ins Gemüse gemischt. Die Küche ist sehr einfach ausgestattet und da ich keinen Ofen gesehen habe, frage ich mich womit die Pastete gekocht werden soll? Aus dem Schrank wird eine spezielle Pfanne hervorgezaubert. Die Pfanne läst sich umdrehen und von beiden Seiten erhitzen. Damit die Hitze gleichmäßig von unten kommt, wird über die Flammen des Gasherds eine Metallplatte gelegt. Nach dem Wenden muss die Pastete nochmal gut 10 min garen und dann ist sie fertig. Lecker!

Tagsüber bin ich schon mal ein wenig durch die Gegend geschlendert und habe ein paar Impressionenen eingefangen. Aufgefallen waren mir an einigen Stellen Bilder auf den Hauswänden. Was ich zunächst für Kunst hielt, musste ich jedoch an einigen Stellen neu klassifizieren. Handelte es sich hier doch nicht um Kunst sondern um Wahlplakate 🙂 (Ich habe die Fotos enstprechend Beschriftet.) Es wird aktuell viel auf der Insel gebaut. Interessant ist, dass einige Gebäude einen Hauch von ArtDeco Stil bekommen. Es wirkt ein wenig wie eine Insel die langsam aus dem Dornröschenschlaf aufwacht. Es wirkt alles noch ein wenig Karg, aber man kann erahnen wie es in 5 Jahren aussehen wird. Schahidi hat mir berichtet, dass viele Familien aktuell Guesthäuser bauen. Jeder der Interesse hat die Inseln zu besuchen sollte sich dies als Hinweis vermerken und die Entwicklung auf der Insel verfolgen.

Ich freute mich auf den Besuch bei Fatma, war gespannt auf das Brotbacken und freute mich im Allgemeinen das die ganze Familie mir so aufgeschlossen gegenüber war. Fatma wartete schon auf mich als ich bei Ihr eintraf. Hier also das Rezept für das süße Hefebrot:

  • 3-4 Tassen Mehl
  • 3-4 EL Zucker
  • 2 TL Hefe
  • 1 EL Magarine
  • 1 Ei
  • eine Messerspitze gelbe Lebensmittelfarbe

Zucker, Hefe, Magarine, Ei und Farbe wird unter Zugabe von etwas Wasser zu einer glatten Masse verrührt. Das Mehl wird zu der Masse hinzugegeben und dann mit der Hand geknetet. Es wird so lange geknetet, bis sich der Teig von den Wänden der Schüssel löst und eine schwer reißende Konsistenz hat. Der Teig muss dann 1,5 Stunden in der Küche ziehen. Nach 1,5 Stunden werden die Bleche mit Öl gefettet und mit öligen Händen kleine glatte Kugeln aus dem Teig geformt. (Auf dem einen Foto kann man sehr schön meine Anfängerklöße im Verhältnis zu den Meisterklößen sehen.). Die Klöße müssen dann weitere 1,5 Stunden ziehen. Die aufgegangenen Klöße müssen dann für ca. 10 – 15 min. in den Backofen, bis ds goldgelbe, duftenden Ergebnis einen anlächelt.

Großartig!