First of all – to all native English speakers – I’m not a native speaker and my English is not perfect. But as I travel now for a longer time, more and more people ask me to write in English. So I will try. Please be so polite and avoid any shady comments. Anybody who loves to do proofreading, feel free to get in touch with me.
I don’t know how many of you are informed about the history of the Maldives Islands. Up to 2008, it was not allowed to Tourists to visit the local islands. Now in 2018 slowly the local islands are developing. Gaafaru is an island that is located approximately 1 hour by Speedboat from Male, the main capital of the Maldives. Roundabout 1000 people living on the 11 ha Gaafaru Atoll.
I get in touch with Gaafaru in 2011, as I was part of a sailing trip here on the Maldives. We run out of Sweetwater and looked desperately for help. As we arrived on Gaafaru it was a highlight for the people here. Shahid was one of first contacts at the pier and immediately offer us to fill our Sweetwater tank with 100l fresh water. We stay for some hours, was invited in his house and both parties were very interested to exchange knowledge and learn the cultural differences. As we left Gaafaru, Shahid and I exchange contact data, but sadly I miss them on the boat after I return home. After a while, I was sad that I miss this opportunity to stay in contact, so I do a research. I remember that Shahid is Teacher at the local school on Gaafaru, and the internet gives me the possibility to find a FAX number from a higher authority of all schools at the Maldives. I did a copy from a picture that we had taken that day, add an arrow to the desired person and write my contact data below the picture. This piece of paper I send by Fax. Three years later suddenly an Email from Shahid reaches me. :-
Since this day, we are in constant contact. As the Maldives is a Moslem country, we talk a lot about the development of the island. For me, it was totally unexpected that the local people on the Maldives are very poor. Shahid as teacher reaches a monthly income from round about 600€ a month. This salary is a good one, compare to other jobs. Shahid is married and father of three children. During the three weeks as I was sailing on the Maldives, I have spent 150€ for cost of living. Imagine one night in one of the Resorts here about 150€ upwards per night. What I want to say is, that from all the luxury that you find in the Resorts nothing ends up at the local people. That’s not fair from my point of view, and so we think about a lot how to develop the community here on Gaafaru.
Many times we have talked about that I come around for visit. Now in 2018 we reach this goal. Like I’m a family member Shahid opens his house for me, and offer me accommodation. It was very interesting for me to see how the island has changed in this years. Gaafaru now has a new harbor and a daily Speedboat gives a very good connection to the main capital Male and the Airport. Currently, already one Hotel exists on the island and 4-5 Guesthouse are under construction. You have the possibility to order different tours like Snorkeling trip, Visit a resort, go fishing or go diving.
The underwater life here is the most amazing that I ever have seen. As I do my first dives here on the Maldives, somehow I’m ruined for all other places. The water is so clear that you have a view from approximately 30m around you. The amount of different species of fish, shells, and corals is mindblowing. On my first visit here in 2011 I was lucky to do a snorkeling trip and meet two manta rays. We swim along for 30 min. I never was more impressed by being close to an animal like on this day. The local people here are extraordinary free divers and very good fish hunters. With my visit this time, I was lucky to have the chance to join one of those fishing trips. Honestly, I always feel sorry for the fish, and I beg all of you not to hunt them. Keep in mind that this beauty is fragile and maybe one of the last places on earth where you can be a witness of such miracle. Don’t touch the corals and just watch them with awe.
Also, the trip into the Moslem culture is worth a visit. I have to confess that I in person was a bit prejudiced about the cultural differences. As I don’t speak the language and was centered in the middle of the whole family, in the beginning, I felt sometimes a little bit uncomfortable. But quickly I understand, that all family members was just worried about that I feel good, that I eat enough and that I’m safe. The care that the family members take for each other is remarkable. I wish that I can take some of this deep love with me, and spread it into our culture. Special when I go fishing with the men of the family and some friends, I felt like a princess surrounded by knights, and each of the knights would give his life to protect me. That was very impressive and somehow I liked that feeling. Even if it is a bit stereotype 🙂
Also, I have to confess that sometimes I felt like an exotic animal, while people on the street watching me. Shyness is blown away by a smile you send back, and also people are interested and start talking to you. When you pass by, they stop you to offer a piece of coconut or explain about fruits that are hanging around. There is one thing that is super typical for the Maldives culture, and that is the chewing of the Betelnut. Pieces of the Betelnut, wrapped in the leaf of the Piper betle vine and some powder of Heraparna added on putting into the mouth to chew. If you try each ingredient single the taste is strange and I would describe it like soapy, but if you combine all things together than it releases an explosion of taste that leads to a refreshing feeling. Not bad! 🙂
For all people who love seafood, you will love the Maldives kitchen. Most of the foods are a little spicy and have curry added. Curry, you found in a huge range of variations. Most foods are served as one dish. The basis of the dish is pieces of flatbread that will be topped by the curry. Most of the time you found a roasted fish next to it, where you peel of pieces of the fish to your dish. Also popular is a leaf salad, that is made of a plant that grows in the yards. The look of the plant reminds me of cabbage. Eating is more than just eat, it is a way to get together and of taking care one to each other. As I’m not a fish eater I can’t say how many variations of fish are available for food but I truly can say, it is many. Also, you can expect lobster, shells, mussels, and octopus. Once again I want to remind you that this rich selection is not obvious. Please consider not to eat the beautiful creatures of the sea as chicken and cow are also available.
Family on the Maldives is a big thing. Families up to seven children are not rare and to have a big family make sense here on the Maldives. The Families most of the time lives together in one house or in houses that are very close. Decisions are bespoken with the whole family and the way how such discussions are done is fascinating. In the evening time, the family sits in the yard. If there is something to talk about than it is more like a storytelling. One person tells a story and the others are listening. After finishing the story the opposite reply their opinion. This talk goes on until you find an agreement. Argumentations you will not hear. It is common that the men go to a cafe to meet up and speak. For my understanding is this the way how community politics works.
All people I have met are very respectful, kind and friendly. The interest in other cultures is huge. I strongly believe that Gaafaru will develop to a super nice place in the next years. I’m sure I will come back and I already know some things that I will put on my bucket list then, cause they are currently not available on the island. So when you go here, and you have the possibility to bring some of the things, I’m sure people will love it.
- Sun protection
- Contact lense liquids
- Tampons
- Milk products
- Most of the time only mobile WIFI
The following list is a collection of things that I can imagine here pretty good, but they are not available.
One recommendation to all people on Gaafaru or the Maldives in general: Educate your community to litter your trash in a bin and not to the ground.
Overall big thanks to the Gaafaru community for my amazing stay. I definitely will come back soon.
