The 17 hour flight from San Fransisco to Singapor with American Airlines was everything else then comfortable. One of the stewardes had the opinion that 18° C is a very good temperatur for such flight. This might be correct, if you have to run up- and down the hall in the airplane, but if you have to sit in a tiny space then you will start freezing quickly.
I had a row in the front and next to me was a mother with a aproximatley 3 year old girl and a 1 year old toddler. As there was only 3 seats, she kept the toddler half on her legs and half on the seat beween us. She explained to me that the toddler had a cold since a few days. The fewer kept the toddler somewhere between sleep and crying. I had the seat to the hall way and next to me in the middle row, my neighbor was a young men who also looked not really healthy.
Coming from 3 month constantly 30° – 35° C I have no idea how I was so clever not only just to wear a t-shirt, covered with a light jacked – no I also didn’t wear any socks. I asked the stewardess if she maybe can rise the temperature a little, but she reacted embaressed and looked at me like I’m crazy – like it was already 28°C – and not 18°C !! People around me started to jump back into their jackets and it was clearly visible that I was not the only one freezing. As the lucky ones also started to wear their wool heads, I was certain that I was not over reacting.
The sweet little girl with the cold next to me really had a struggle. Once the seat was not really comfortable for her to find some sleep, also we had a lack of pillows and blackets to kept her warm and covered. I handed my blanked to the mother too, hoping that the sweet litttle one find some more comforte then.
As this was not enough, my pre-ordered vegetrarian meal was not available. I decided to buy a sandwitch insetead but as the stewardes broght it to me, it was false too. I walked to the back cabin wishing that I get a chance to change my sandwitch, and then finaly my wished becomes true. The cabin crew in the back cabin was very friendly and helpful. Not only that they exchanged my sandwitch, they also agree to rise the temperatur. Somehow it was a funny picture to see all the passengers, sitting in jackets, wearing wool hats, freezing – and minutes later everybody started to relax and peel themselfs out of their clothes.
The cabin crew from the back also organised a change of seat, so that the mother with the sik child gets some more space and comfort. Of course it was me, who was changing the seat. My new seat neighbours was to my right a young – aproximatly 25 years old- white guy, and to my left a young – aproximatly 25 years old – women. The womens appearance had an indian touch and this coincidence turned out to become a very funny, interesting conversations full of contrast.
The young guy, a christian, started to explain that he is a true beliver in god and that he follows the rules of – no sex upront marriage. I was quite astonished to hear such opinion from such a young guy. As my personal opinion about this rule is not the best one, I started to ask questions how he gets experience in sex and if he not agree that it might be important to understand one selfs needs in that field. He confessed that one way to get an idea is to watch porn. I tried to explain to him that the transported image about women in porn movies are likly to be far away from the real needs of a women and the young lady to my left agreed to me.
The laughter was complete as I asked her – clearly from a diffrent culture – how they manage to solve this question. She replied “we have the kamasutra”. Oh what would I give to see the movie in the head of the young man to my right. It was 30 min. to landing and other people from the rows behind us started to join our conversation. Too sad that our flight was nearly at its end. For sure this was one of the most interesting conversations I ever had on a flight.
Touchdown in Singapur after 17 hours of flight and pleased with the most beautiful airport I have ever seen. Also me didn’t looked too bad. I enjoyed one hour in the lounges around me and then hop hop…up to the next flght. Bangkok ahead
As my trip from Panama to Thailand needed me to fly through San Francisco, I had the chance to use my 5 hours stop over time for a quick visit to the city. San Francisco welcomed me with a sunny day around 20 degreese. At the airport I ask around how to go to the Golden Gate Bridge the most easy way and the local people recomended to me to use the fast train from the airport and back.
I was a bit surprised as the ticket for the train was quite expensive, around 15€ one way, but decided to go anyway. Maybe two stations after the airport, the people in the train mixed up to, from my point of view, the average people. I have to confess that most people gave me the impression of feeling unhappy, life in poverty, work very hard, don’t eat healthy, life isolated – or in other words – this people does not match my expectations from the everage american people that I had in my head.
The train was quick and as I left the train, I found myself somewhere in the financial district. The architecture was more then impressiv. This view totaly matched my expectations – but still people on the streets seems to be far away from each other. Maybe I come from a too small town, but I’m used to that people look each other into the eyes or face, say hello or smile when you pass them somewhere outside. Here it looked to me that only people who know each other have a connection.
I think thats why I’m so in love with Asia.
I walked down the street into the direction to the harbor. The harbor pictured with a very old and big building what might been constructed in the 1920th was a super beautiful view. Behind the harbor building I saw a big bridge and with my little knowledge about the world, in the first moment I thought this is already the golde gate bridge, but it wasn’t. It was the Bay Bridge but not less impressive. How is it possible to build something like this? How long has it taken and how many people was needed to work on this? Fantastic!
I took 30 pictures and then realised that the remaining time window will be to small as to make it to the Golden Gate Bridge. So I looked around to find a little souvenier for my guest family in Thailand. I remembered that they asked me for books with images and english words. Sadly in the small book shop at the harbor I could’t find anything nice. So I enjoyed some moments to watch the sunset and then head back to the train station. Temperatures was falling quickly and the waiting time for the train becomes very long and cold. As my next flight would be with American Airlines, I was sure that I won’t miss any comfort. 17 hours flight time. The longest distance I ever flew. Destination Singapur and one houre stop over. I worried how I will feel on my arival as my travel time will then already hit 35 hours.
With this thoughts in my head I entered the train and looked forward to get back to the hopefully more warm airport. In the train I had similar impressions from the people who sourounded me. One example quite shocked me a bit. A young women took the seat next to me. She was heaveyly overweighted and from our seat row with 3 seats, she filled two of them. As she constantly looked on her cell phone while sitting next to me, I’d rather could’t do anything else then look on her screen too. She was scrolling down her Instagram stream and all pictures in her stream showed mostly other young women but all of them was slim. As far as I could grab the topics about on the pictures, mostly it was about looks, fashion and make up trends. That was shocking to me, as I feel the huge pressure that last today on the young people, with images that are so useless and far away from reality. What kind of civilisation is this? Where most of us try to be what high gloss magazines want us to be? Where happy moments on Instagram becomes a currency?
The arrival of the train blewed away my thoughts and as I checked in my luggage already after landing, it takes me just a short time until I looked out of the window, ready for the next flight.
Oh, how beautiful is Panama…is the main phrase of our famous Janosch. So expectations were quite high and maybe it makes sense to confess directly at the beginning that Panama and I have not become friends.
Maybe it was the circumstances how and why to get there, not enough preparation or whatever, but I didn’t feel comfortable from the first moment on.
It started quite promising, as a nice guy in my plain helped me at the immigration and later on offered me to share his car with a private driver to get into town. But at the arrival at my hostel, I started to worry.
What looked promising on the pictures, turned out to be on the border to acceptable. One one hand on the opposite of the streets was a big building in construction and on the other hand, the place was neither clean or comfortable and even basics like toilet paper, spoons and cups were missing. Only 2 nights was the only promising thought. I have to admit, that at least the people in the hostel was very nice and helpful, and everything that I could explore in walking distance was ok, but already I develope a certain feeling of feeling uncomfortable walking around outside.
Skyline Panama
My Hostel Downtown
My Hostel Downtown
My Hostel Downtown
Skyline Panama
Skyline Panama
Upfront my arrival, I got in touch with Victor Perez. I met him via Couchsurfing where he invited me to visit his Kids project in an area called El Chorillio. El Chorillio had made some history with being one of the most dangerous areas in Panama. Also, the place is historical, as the invasion of the USA has taken place here. We agreed on meeting in a cafe nearby two days after my arrival.
To go around in Panama – Grab is your friend. The ride with the car runs through an area called Casco Viejo – which means Old Town. It’s a very beautiful area of Panama as it is stuffed with many colonial buildings, which has been renovated and modernized. Its a huge contrast to the rest of the city as everything here looks clean and rich.
My meeting with Victor was very interesting as he had a lot to explain about the history of this area and his own development. Born as Kuna Jala, he moved into the capital on an early stage. After working several years in Hotel management he was bothered by the development and gentrification that happened around Casco Viejo and El Chorillio. Topped with feeling pity for all the child that grew up at such bad circumstances he decided to quit his job and start to take action.
Through his initiative, he could organize a safe place for the children. The Police station of El Chorillio agreed on placing a development programme for the children in their offices. As the children normally had to spend the day (and nights) mostly on the street, without someone who takes care of them, educate them or simply spent some love to them, this programme invented a huge change for the area. On the one hand, the children have the chance to get some education, on the other hand, they found trust in the police officers.
Soon after Victor found the idea of his program, he found others who liked the idea and started to rais some funding and other initiatives. So I was looking forward to seeing the place of action and find out more.
After our meeting in the cafe, we walked to the police station. I have to confess that this was the first time since I started my travels that I had the deep impression of not being safe.
It was such a huge contrast and happening on such a small scale. With just some steps out of the area of Casco Viejo into the area of El Chorillio, the surrounding changed dramatically. Where a minute ago were beautiful buildings, well-dressed people and clean walkways, now there were broken houses, none maintained walkways and strange people looking at you. Just after a few steps, you feel people watching you. The streets become more and more secluded and I felt losing my orientation.
I ask Victor if he is sure that we can go into this area, and I recognized him greeting people around. He confessed that we are safe and in the right direction. Crazy thoughts run through my mind – „you do exactly what everywhere is written not to do“, „around the next corner, they will rob you“ and so on. I asked Victor how far we have to walk and he replied that it is just a few minutes more. I decided that I will follow him 200m more, and then stop and go back. Luckily we arrived within this 200m.
The police station was far from what I expected as the furniture and equipment reminded me more of 1950 as of 2018. The police officers looked at me like a stranger, but at least they were smiling. Victor started to explain his project ideas to me, showed me pictures from ongoing projects and also some kids were around. Space was very limited and I could imagine how hard this work must be.
After Victor finished his explanations, we walked back. This time I understand that the people in the community already know him and his work. My impression was that people like what he does, and as long I walk with him I’m safe.
Back in Casco Viejo, he recommended a Hotel for me – The Magnolia Inn – which should become my new home for the next week. I moved in the next day, and again I run into a thing that I never had experienced up front. At the reception, they handed a map to me. The picture showed the area of Casco Viejo which was surrounded by a blacked out area – El Chorillio! The area was commented with the words „Don’t go here“ and I felt stupid about my exploration the day before. So I decided not to meet with Victor again and explained to him my feelings. He promised me that I don’t have to worry but my decision was already done.
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
The Magnolia Inn -Casco Vjeco
The Magnolia Inn -Casco Vjeco
The Magnolia Inn -Casco Vjeco
The Magnolia Inn -Casco Vjeco
The Magnolia Inn -Casco Vjeco
The Magnolia Inn -Casco Vjeco
The Magnolia Inn -Casco Vjeco
The Magnolia Inn -Casco Vjeco
The Magnolia Inn -Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
cof
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
cof
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
cof
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Christmas lights in Panama
Skyline at night
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Casco Vjeco
Instead, I explored the beauty of Casco Viejo a bit more and had some fun meeting every day new people in the hostel. One evening a young girl arrived and reported that her luggage was lost at the airport. As she didn’t have anything I borrowed some clothes and shower gel. The next day we decided to move to Porto Lindo together. Porto Lindo is located in the northeast of Panama, close to the area of the San Blas Islands. My hope was to meet people and find a cheap trip through the islands. The regular price to find in Panama City was around 5 days / 500€ which was quite expensive from my point of view. To get to Porto Lindo we had to take a bus, passing through Sabanitas. Sabanitas is close to Colone and known to be a dangerous place. As we started in the morning and told the taxi driver where we want to go, he warned us as well. We should take care of the bus station in Sabanitas, where we had to change the bus. Again I felt quite uncomfortable and I become a bit nervous about our trip.
We managed to find our bus and the trip up to Sabanitas was easy and nothing bad happened at all. But as we arrived at the checkpoint in Sabanitas, the bus guide stepped out of the bus and guided us around the corner. I felt eyes watching us, and tension in the air. Around the corner at the next bus stop already a lot of people was waiting. Here the tension becomes normal again, and a few minutes later the chicken bus, we had to take comes around the corner. We were the only tourists on the bus, but the people looked friendly and my nervosity becomes lower again.
Chicken Bus 🙂
Porto Bello – Panama
A purple church with a black Jesus!!
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Jesus is black !!
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Porto Bello – Panama
Reaching Porto Lindo, we found ourselves in a very small village, where most houses looked kind of broken and obviously the people here was poor too. Our hostel was up one road and around 500m up the hill to walk. The owner of the hostel was very nice and kind but the hostel itself was a very low standard. 15€ a night was the highest I ever have paid to stay in a dorm. The dorm room was in the basement, wet walls, smelly, dark and no stable WIFI. At least outside was a small kitchen, so we could cook some food. We walked down into the village and did some shopping. Groceries also pricy, and not much to buy. We walked around and all that we saw had a lack of beauty. The sea water along the coast was dirty, a lot of trash everywhere. I started to wonder why so many people reported Panama as beautiful.
Next day I started to figure out a new place to stay with stable WIFI. All the places I found was 30€ – 60€ upwards one night and miles away from the standard that I was used to from SEA (South East Asia). At least I decided for a small hostel that was not located at the sea, in an even smaller village a few kilometers more east as Porto Lindo. Hostal Wunderbar was the name and ran by a German couple. Guido, the owner was that kind of person, who always had a story to tell. His voice was strong and his humor was kind of rough. He reminded me of the actor from the Netflix series Pablo Escobar, and it could not be a better fit in this area. I could negotiate a good price with him for 3 months and WIFI was strong. The place was not a dream place but quite and I could imagine staying here. So we agreed that he will pick me up the next day at the taxi station and I was happy about the process.
Next day I waited at the taxi station for more than one hour, but no Guido appears. After I messaged him a few times, he asked me if I had the possibility to come by taxi. A bit angry I ordered a taxi and moved to the hostel. As I reach there, Guido explained to me that he wants to change our deal. I should take a different room. This room was in the basement and the furniture and decoration were miles away from the room we formally decided on. Also, he wanted me to pay the regular price in the first month and limit the price in the next month so that I will reach the price we agreed on only if I really stay 3 months. I was not okay with this information, and the overall behavior told me it’s better to leave. But as I was kind of desperate and in need of good WIFI for work I agreed on the conditions.
Sadly it was not possible to rent a scooter. The only option to get around was to take a chicken bus. But as the area was far from everything also the busses were rare. It was possible to go to Porto Bello and Back or to go more east to La Guaira. From La Guaira it was possible to take a water taxi to visit La Isla Grande. As there were no buses back to Porto Lindo in the afternoon, you needed to stay overnight or take a taxi. On La Isla Grande the cheapest hostel was 15€ / night and the water taxi was 5€ one way. Quite pricy as La Isla Grande has not much to show and the beaches around also was not very beautiful.
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
La Isla Grande
The most beautiful thing from my point of view was the people. The staff in the hotel developed quickly into my part-time family and they take a lot of care to keep me happy. Also, I met Hanna at Hostal Wunderbar. Hanna was from Germany too and regularly lives in the area of Munich. She traveled also a lot and I loved her calm personality and sense of humor.
But even after a few weeks, my feeling of uncomfortable won’t go away. I had to face Christmas and New year upcoming and my wish to be somewhere else becomes more and more overwhelming. Where to go? The first thing that comes into my mind was Koh Kood. I missed my smiling Thailand, the beautiful nature and to swim in the ocean so much. So I decided to free my soul from Panama and booked a ticket to Bangkok. As you have to go a half time around the world the trip was 38 hours in total. But anyway I looked forward to it, as I would fly through San Francisco and Singapore.
Frightened as I was I decided on top not to go by bus. Luckily the brother from Alexandro (the stuff that worked in Hostal Wunderbar) had a car and he offered me to bring me to the airport for a good price.
Two days later we started early in the morning. On our way we passed, the area was there must have been the robbery on the bus. Just by passing with the car it was clearly visible how poor the people must be who lived here. Shocking!
Happily, I arrived at at the airport safely and as quick I have dropped into Panama as quick I was gone again.
The flight to Miami was short and very comfortable. At the Airport I took a Taxi to my hostel and I was happy to find a clean and comfortable room. The Dorm beds had a nice design, with a little locker for your personal stuff and even an own TV. This evening I didn’t do anything and looked forward to finding some proper sleep. Sadly the girl below me seem to have a night rhythm as she was on the phone until around 23:00 then take a shower and left. The next morning she was not in the room. So I took the opportunity to have the bathroom on my own, to take a long and nice shower. Then I left the hostel to visit the famous Miami Beach.
I started my trip on the opposite of the street were there was a typical American Diner. I really felt like in the movie – Pulp Fiction – as this place looked absolutly how you imagine an American Diner. Even the waiter and waitress matched totaly my expectations and I couldnt stop smiling as they come around and asked me „Good morning sweety, what can I do today for you? Coffee?“ – so I ordered an ordinary Toast with coffee, and some cheese and watched the szene in the diner while eating. All other guest ordered a hot breakfast with huge amounts of eggs, pancakes, sausages and other very heavy stuff and I watched it with surprised eyes. There was one lady who only took the order, one lady who brought the coffee and another guy who cleaned the tables. Sugar, milk, salt, pepper, majonaise, ketchup – all was on the table in little plastic boxes and gives me the impression that the states is the country where nobody has to worry about anything. I was impressed.
American DinerAmerican Diner
Google Maps told me it is just a 15 min. walk but after approximately 10 min. it was clear that it was not a distance to walk. I saw a lady in the street who looked like waiting for a bus and ask her for information. She confirmed that I can take the L bus to Miami Beach and also we had a little nice chat. I was very surprised about how friendly all the people was that I met. The bus arrived and I looked forward to my journey. A few stops later and elderly man enterd the bus, and took the seat next to me. He started a conversation and I figured out that his name was Connor and that he lives here in Miami since the 80th. I asked where to leave the bus and he suggested me to take the same exit as he will do. He offered me to walk me around and explain the area to me, and I agreed. He was a very nice person. His look was a bit dirty and his clothes was not in best condition, but he seemed to be very honest and he had huge knowledge about the area.
So I found myself walking with Connor along the famous Ocean Boulevard. A lot of the houses had the unique Art-Deco style, and nearly each building was owned by someone famous, or something interesting has happend here. So we pass the house where the movie „Scarface“ with Al Pacino was made, the Versace house, a cafe owned by Bruce Willis, and one place that was owned by Madonna. The Boulevard it self was ocupied from such a huge amount of big or expensive cars that it was kind of unreal. The traffic was very slow and it was obviously that is not about to get from one place to the other, then to show what you got. Also the people matched my expectations. You saw 80th looking like roller skater, oiled body builder, surfer boys, and ladys on high heels.
The hotel from the movie Scarface
The hotel from the movie Scarface
The Versace House
The Versace House
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Connor & I
Miami ocean drive
Connor my guide
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
Miami ocean drive
I enjoyed the converstation with Connor. The story of his live was for sure not a boring one, with ups and downs. He confessed to me that for a certain time he was on crack. The using was the reason why he lost his wife, as he spent all her money on drugs. As there wasnt anything anymore, he regret and found peace in god. Since then he didnt drink or use anymore and visit the church on regular bases. He showed my pictures of his family and I felt kind of sad as he confesses that he never had the opportunity to left the country. I promised him that, if I really will buy a sailboat, to come around and take him out for a sail. I invited him on a bagel and a coffee in Madonnas cafe, and after he helped my to find a place where I could bye some post cards we sayed goodbye to each other.
My next stop was to pass from the Boulevard to the beach. I was surprised that the beach was not that ugly as I expected it. It is a very long beach, that stretches as far as you can see. Along the beach side you see a lot of very big hotels but somehow this does not really destroy the look. Every 250m you see a Baywatch tower, and a lot of people was chilling in the sun. The color of the water was nice blue, and didn’t looked dirty at all. The beach was full, but not overcrowded. Of course this is not a place where you want to spent two weeks but for 2-3 days it might be nice. Surprisingly nice.
Baywatch hut
Miami Beach
Miami Beach
Miami Beach
Headquaters of Baywatch
I walked a bit around and become witness of the famous drag queen shows in the Palace Cafe. I didnt know that Miami is also famous for gay people and it was kind of funny that next to the Palace cafe a man on the corner offered free HIV tests. I found a nice little place where they sold fresh made, vegetarian wraps and smoothies. A real delight!
Drag Queens
Drag Queens
Drag Queens
Drag Queens
Drag Queens
Drag Queens
Drag Queens
I walked back the way where Connor and I had started our trip and then found a cheep latino shop where they sold luggage. I decided to buy one, as my bag was absolutly not made for Backpacking like trips. Happy and Impressed I returned by UBER back to my hostelitself and started to repack my luggage. Clearly to much stuff! The luggage was so heavy that I directly worry about how to travel with this from now on. I decided not to worry about that now to much and instead to go out for a dinner.
Earlier this day I have seen a restaurant near by which advertised its place with „organic“, „bio“ and so on. I ordered some champions topped with cheese and a sparkeling water. Taste was great and the place was nicly decorated. I enjoyed the food even if it was a bit pricy. Then I returned to my Hostel and enjoyed a good and long sleep.
Around my hostel
Around my hostel
Around my hostel
Around my hostel
At the carwash
In the morning I took an UBER to the Airport and again I had the chance to had a very nice chat with the female driver. The also was a single mom and obviously she needed to UBER to keep her family up and running. She explained that she is kind of an artist but lack here in Miami opportunities to present her art or find like minded people. Also she explained that from being a young girl on, she loved writing and so she was super happy as I gave her some tips where she can find online work and opportunities where to earn some money.
Finally, at the airport, I felt a bit sad to leave Miami so soon, as I really enjoyed my time here. Goodbye Miami – Hello Panama
