Kategorie: Grenada

So far, Carriacou was the nicest place we have visited. When we arrived we place Jabulo in Tyrell Bay. Tyrell Bay is quite full with sailboats and you will recognize that most boats look like designed for longer passages. Many boats with aluminum hull and a quiet atmosphere along the ships.

We had the luck that directly next to our anchorage there were two nice shipwrecks in the bay. Perfect for snorkeling. Also, the water in the bay was pretty good in comparison to Trinidad for example. So I directly jumped into the water, stuffed with my camera and take a look at the wrecks.

As it was already afternoon and the sun starts to rise, the light underwater made a perfect image when I approach the first wreck. Like in a picture book, you could see the front of the ship, the driver’s place and a big winch in the back of the ship. One side was completely gone, but the other side remains half. There where the walls of the ship offer some shadow, fishes use the boat as protection or a playground. There was no new species so far and also the number of different species was not overwhelming but, as it was just one jump away from our boat, it gives a nice space for exploration.

With my constant need of WIFI, we decided to stay until Tuesday, cause I had a phone call that day. The mobile data doesn’t work well at our anchorage so I had to move to a restaurant at the beach. The Lazy Turtle restaurant invites you with fancy lights in the evening, and a colorful wall painting in the day. The Lazy Turtle had a dinghy dock in front with a little pear that seems to end directly at the beginning of their stairs for entrance.

On our first visit to the Lazy Turtle, we allowed us to have a cocktail. I had a very good Mojito and I would not say that I felt drunk, but as we return to the boat and I tried to grab the grip at the boat, I fell over. I and the bag with my computer landed in the water. All my thoughts were with my computer and after managed to hand the bag to Uwe, I helped to pull the Dinghy to the boat. It must have looked very funny how I fall into the water, and after I ensured that my computer was super dry and safe, I could finally laugh about myself. What a mess! 🙂

The next day we did another shipwreck visit and brave Martha really manage to find my sunglasses that I had lost the night before, where I did my unwanted dive into the water. As there was a very big see star on the ground I didn’t manage to focus on my sunglasses and later on neither I or Martha was able to find the classes again.

The next day we lift anchor and headed by motor to Sandy I. A sand bay in front of Hillsborough Bay. Hilsborow bay is the second bay on Carriacou and an Immigration is located there. We wanted to declare out the next morning and decided to stay overnight at Sandy I, where a nice little reef was located. Sandy I is a man-made bay from the sand with some palm trees and other green. The perfect location for a perfect Caribbean picture.

As the area around Sandy I is declared as protected marine area, you are not allowed to throw your anchor. But a bunch of mourning is in front of the bay. We caught one and as fast as I can I jumped into the water. I and Martha wanted to figure out if it is possible to swim over to the beach bay, but after we pass one reef the water becomes very shallow and it seems to be impossible to reach the coast without touching the ground. We both decided that we don’t want to put us on such risk and decided just to explore the area a bit.

In the reef, a lot of different species lived there. I caught one fish on camera that I never have seen before. Also, huge fish swarms were around. It was very interesting to see. The younger fish swam in the outside of the swarm, and in the inside, the more old fish swam. Like a protection ring around that fish that is able to produce new fish. Clever!.  Martha swam completely into the swarm and it looked amazing how she was surrounded by all the little fishies.

I also saw a big stingray. But he was too far away as I could catch him on camera. Also, the water was so shallow that I must have got very close to him, what I don’t want. But overall it was a nice swim and snorkeling. On the surface, we could watch Pelikan birds with their amazing talent to catch fish. They fly up, look into the water, and then fall down like an arrow. They dive into the water with their heads and half of the body, catch the fish and lift up into the sky. Fantastic!

The afternoon was filled and completed first with Roney, a young guy who sold vegetables and fruit to us. This is something that you will experience a lot here in the Caribbean. Local people who came by on a small boat, to sell fruit, oyster, lobster or take away your trash. Our Romney surprisingly had good tomatoes, which we bought and a bunch of bananas. He told us that he also works as DJ but none of us caught the invitation to figure out how professional he might be.

Then sunset began, and it was one of this sunset that keeps you speechless for 60min. Started with the sun that falls down directly in the middle of two big rocks on the horizon, followed by orange and yellow that filled the wide area, break at the clouds and makes the sky look like it burns. As there were many clouds in the sky the colors and shapes seem to be endless, even after the sun was already down. How blessed I am!

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The forecast speaks about heavy winds in the afternoon, so we decided to start quickly. First, we drive the boat by the motor to Hillsborough Bay, and then approach land to clear out at immigration. To bad that we didn’t have more time here. Such a nice and lovely place!! So sweet buildings, shops, and interesting looking people. As far as I have understood only 800 – 900 people living on Carriacou, so it is not a metropole area, but I definitely could imagine having a wonderful holiday here.

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After the rough bridge from Trinidad the day before, Grenada seems to be very welcoming. Our Anchorage was located right hand from the entrance to the Port of St. George’s, in front of the beautiful Grand Anse Beach. To reach the Dinghy Dock at the Port it takes approximately a 5 min ride.

When you approach the city of St. George’s you clearly see the influence of the colonialism. Left hand up on a hill you see the remaining of an old fort. Some buildings look like time stand still and it is colorful everywhere.

On our first visit, Uwe showed us the local fruit marked, some grocery stores and explains the average prices and exchange rates. From Grenada, up north, you can pay everywhere in EC, East Caribbean Dollar. The exchange rate is about 3/1 and the cost of food is quite high. The prices for local vegetables are reasonable. We plan to use as much local fruit and vegetables as possible, to run a small budget.

 

I somehow directly fall in love with Grenada. I loved the look of the buildings, the sound in the streets, and the people. But I have to confess that I also had some not that easy days. First of all my experience from sailing on wild one was always to look for the most lonely Anchorage. To go on land as less as possible. Now we found ourself in the middle of many other sailors in front of a big city. As you can imagine water quality was not the best but at least miles better than in Trinidad.

Next was, I didn’t get a long easy with my shipmate Martha. As she and I was the total opposite of each other often I didn’t feel comfortable. On top, a group of three is always not easy. Quickly after the first few days, I found my self in the position of the outlaw and felt constantly attracted from Martha’s very big Ego.

So it happens that one day as Martha and I was for shopping, that I speak out pretty clear what anoyes me. The air between us becomes extremely thin so that I made thoughts about leaving the boat. It then happens that Martha’s phone gets stolen and also the captain complained about some of her behavior. I felt so sorry for her, that I apologized deeply the next morning with the hope that we have a chance to start over.

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The differences Martha and I had can be described very well in two words – hygienic Eva! Me in person a very organized, more overplayed and tidy person (a hygienic Eva) VS. an unplanned, chaotic person with manors like in student flat sharing, were you absolutely only care for your stuff. Clearly, this could not work. On a boat, with tiny space, this can cause very bad experiences. So how to deal with it? I decided to wait the month and give myself a good time frame to avoid acting while over reacting.

As I already started to look out for new boats, I read a good advice. Speak out clearly. Also, I focused on the arrival of Uwe’s daughter at the beginning of November. I expected that a fourth person on board will develop a change. As after the visit of Uwe’s daughter and the arrival of his wife only two weeks was in between I started to keep this in mind and stay with my positive view. I don’t want to spend a bad time constantly feeling anger. Also, I thought I maybe should see this situation as challenging for my self to speak out quicker and not to accept everything. With this in mind, I felt better.

One evening we had the chance to go attend a full moon party. A live band played some reggae cover music, most Bob Marley but sadly there were not enough people to make this evening a historical bomb as a party, but anyway I was one of the first that hit the dance floor. As I have not been out for dancing a very long time I really enjoyed the music and the dancing. I could imagine perfectly what it must be a nice atmosphere if there would have been more people, especially locals.

As there were many other sailors on that Anchorage was we were, it does not take long until we get in touch with some. I guess the most specific one was a guy on the boat next to us. The name of the boat was „Sven“, so I guess he might a German citizen. As he was somehow so specific, we didn’t really talk with him, so I only can guess. His boat was approximately a 10m monohull boat and not in the best condition. The interior and equipment we imagine as very basic, as Sven did his daily shower each day outside on the deck – naked. He grabbed some saltwater with a bucket an empty the bucket while standing below it. In the morning and afternoon regularly he takes a seat in on the mast and just looked around. His overall visual impression you can imagine like Tom Hanks in the movie where he gets lost on an island for four years. Seven definitely needs a haircut. But he was a friendly guy, always waving and smiling, and bravely delivered something to speak about while we sit at ours sundowners.

Another couple that we met was Conny and Marcel on their boat Marielle. Their hat a 2.5 year old sun Gino, which I really liked. They was super nice and friendly, and also the boat was very nice. A 38ft lagoon catamaran and brand new. So the interior looked so new and luxury, very impressive. We spend one or two evenings together and I hoped we will met them again during our trip. The handed the card of a German couple to me, who obviously live already my dream. Office on a boat. I definitely had to get in touch with them.

What I can say is that these sailing people are a specific group of people. Obviously, there are rules, behaviors, events, and locations that everybody knows and where it is common to meet. As from my point of view, it was quite a lot of people who are joining this lifestyle I get the impression that the catamaran sailor is more like the camper drivers. And in the middle of so many catamarans, I somehow felt a little like on a German camping space. I don’t know how to describe this image properly but the German readers will understand.

After two weeks we lift the anchor and started to sail. First destination the Isle de Ronde, what was 15 see miles from Grenada. We hadn’t any wind why we made most of the way on motor. But it was good to had off to new spaces. The Isle de Ronde is a small island without people. There is an Anchorage, for stay overnight and a guide promised that it is a nice snorkeling. On our way we had to pass an area in Grenada that is a protected marine life area. We stopped by for a quick snorkeling to see the Falken figures that lay here on the ground. I really enjoyed the snorkeling and for the first time I saw an Oktopus swimming by. The figures was impressive and I decided that I have to practice more diving.

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The Isle de Ronde sadly was not the promised super snorkeling spot, but anyway it was a beautiful evening here. Next stop is Carriacou where we plan to declare out from Grenada and then head north to St Vincent and the Grenadines. Let’s go!