November 2018 - dev-girl-on-steroids

Le Marin and good bye Jabulo

As planned, the next morning we started our sail to Le Marin. Approximately 5 hours was planned for the sailing, what was not really matching to my plans, as I had to work this day. Like ordered in the universe the bottom rope from our Mainsail crushed, so we had to switch to the motor. The bay of Le Marin is the main meeting point for sailors in the Carribean. Its hard to guess but approximately 1500 – 2000 boats are on anchorage in the bay. As we entered the bay we had to pass a transport ship for motor yachts and sail yachts. I never have seen something like this before. A huge vessel where you drove your ship into. Crazy!

The plenty of boats around left their traces. The water around us was blurry and greenish. Not to compare with Trinidad but definitely not the water where you are lucky to jump into every day.

As Martinique belongs to EU, my regular phone contract with data should work here, but the coverage at our anchorage was pretty bad. By Dhingy you easily can drove over to the Marina nearby. Prices in the Marina Bars was high as expected, but WIFI was good. I spent the first day with working full time, and then in the afternoon, I tried to figure out what SIM card options are available. Here I have to say – fail Martinique – all available Data plans was something around 2GB/40€ which was unacceptable for me. So I spent the rest of the afternoon sitting in Mc Donalds as they offered free WIFI too. So my options were to sit on land, day by day and use the WIFI from the Bar at the Marina, or a similar place or to pay 40€ on average for 2 days mobile WIFI. All in all, it was clear that I could not stay here until the middle of February.

Le Marin architecture
Rum in masses
Til gaul? – horse?
sweet bar at Le Marin
Le Marin around the marina
Le Marin around the marina
Cemetary at Le Marinn
Nice House
Bus station Le Marin
Art in a bar
What a nice decor – Le Marin
What a nice decor – Le Marin
What a nice decor – Le Marin
What a nice decor – Le Marin
What a nice decor – Le Marin
Art in Le Marin
Art in Le Marin
Art in Le Marin

So, I decided to look for flights and I already had figured out that the cheepest way to get away from Martinique is to fly through the US (Miami or Fort Lauderdale). Flights on my earlier research was around 300€ and I was happy in the end to find a flight for 200€ through Miami to Panama. Sadly the flight was on the 1tst of December which shorten my stay on Jabulo one week down. But on the other hand I looked forward to be back on my own. I figured out that the flight from Miami to Panama is a regular flight on every day and so I thought by myself – why not stay one night longer in Miami and visit the famous Miami Beach?! Accomodation was a bit pricy but in the end I found a Hostal near the Airport for 80€ / 2 Nights. After all my worries and a bit of sorrow, I thought that this would be a perfect adventure to move my mind to other thoughts and booked it.

Later, when I was back in the Marina, I started a conversation with a guy I met there. His name was „Nacho“, coming from Spain and an engineer in renewable Energies. He told me that his boat is on sale and so I asked him if Martha and I can come around for a visit later on. He agreed and after we cooked something we took the Dhingy and headed over to his boat. The boat was an old Endevour. He explained to us, that this boat model was used in the series Miami Vice. Sonny Crocket was living on a boat model like this in the series, what make this model kind of famous. He also explained, that only 80 pieces of this model was build and aproximatly 20 of them was used in the series. Anyway for me this was not a boat what I would love to own, as it was very heavy and the interior was made from dark wood. This take so much light in the inside that I imagine to get depressions if I had to life there.

Then Nacho told us about some live music later on, and some friends with a brand new Catamaran who do a party on the boat. He wanted to ask if we can join and we arranged to meet up ashore around 7. It turned out that the live music was a karaoke event in the bar of the marina. We stayed for some drinks and as the music becomes louder which each song, we decided to leave around 10. The situation was perfect, as was able Nacho took us directly to the party boat. On the boat was a young crew from mainly polish people, loud music, and enough drinks. The boat was impressive. Brand new, and with a lot of luxury details. The people of the crew was amazingly friendly and it was a lot of fun, to mingle around, talking and enjoying the night. With a good portion of rum, Uwe and I decided to leave around 3 in the night and we both was astonished that we was able to stay that long.

Next morning I woke up with a strong hangover, but still happy about the funny night before. It was planned to go out for dinner in the evening, but as Martha had stayed overnight with one of the guys from the party boat, it happens that she wanted to head over to his boat over the weekend. That made our dinner a bit uncomfortable and not like a goodbye dinner as it should ment to be. Anyway this only confirm my decision to leave the boat.

It was not possible to figure out a clear plan of how to get to the airport, but Uwe has promised me to help with my luggage. As this luggage was intended to be for 6 month and traveling on boat, it was challenging to take this super big bag to the airport. 30° and straight sunlight made me sweat and this pushes my anger about the situation a bit more. Somehow Uwe and I managed to arrive at the bus station and he asked some people around to figure out what is the right bus. I don’t understand French that much but the explanation from the people sounds like I had to wait a bit longer for another bus. But Uwe told me it is fine and placed me on the next bus that appears. I understand that I had to switch to a shared taxi later on, and thought by myself that I will reach the airport somehow.

The drive with the bus was nice. Soon as we had left the area of Le Marin, the landscape looked very beautiful and like it wants to be explored. Also the switch to the shared taxi was not a problem and overall I did the way to the airport for 4€ in total. The shared taxi drop me off at the exit of the motorway and just from looking it was clear that I had to walk about 2km from here. The bag was horrible to carry, as it always crushed into my legs. Only the anger inside of me makes it happend that I made the way.

The airport was still asleep when I arrived at 10 a.m. I got a coffee, and some food and then I felt the release in my mind. From that moment I was sure that I did the right thing. So it is – goodbye Jabulo – hello Miami

Up to Martinique

After our three nights in the Keys we had to left up north again to reach Martinique in time. The passage is easy to sail in two days if you consider a one night stop in St. Vincent or St. Lucia. We decided that we go up to St. Lucia and then spent the night in the bay of the two Pitones, as we last time have missed to go for snorkeling there.

Girl power
Girl power
Girl power

In perfect sailing conditions and in a good mood it was a very nice trip. Martha dominated steering the boat as usual, and Isabell and I chilled through the trip. The light was so nice and also my biggest wish has been fulfilled – Dolphins and rainbows in the sky!

The group swam for approximately 10 min. in front of our vessel and shortly after the disappearance a much bigger single Dolphin showed up. Sadly he was so quick that I couldn’t caught him on camera.

Dolphins and Rainbows

Each time you reach the Deux Pitones its super impressive again. I don’t know exactly what it is, but I guess the reason is, that you see them already from very far away and then, as more close you come, as more huge they become. The form is somehow unusual for mountains as the both have such a sharp tip. It seems impossible to climb them and the trees and roots on them has totally merged into the picture. Also each time when we was here, the sunset was amazing and so this time too.

The next morning Martha and I jumped from board to do a quick snorkeling trip. The water above the mooring was pretty deep, about 100m. It takes some courage to swim over to the snorkeling spot, cause the color of the water differs from the other spots were we have been so far. Its a deep blue and as you can’t see the ground neighter see fish around you on your first look it feels a little like a step into a unknown space.

I told my mind not to look down and instead just look straight. I spoke a straight word not to think about the deep and swam over. The reef reminded mine on a snorkeling that I did last year on the Maldives. It was like the outer reef where you just can look along the edge of it, down into the deep. As deeper it gets, as bigger the fish is going to be but you only see them raw and not really sharp. So its more about shadows and your imagination. Near to the surface, the fishes are smaller and there was plenty of them. Swarms – and they seemed to have no fear, come close to my camera and I nearly could touch them. The reef was not super spectacular but nice. On the way back we had to untie the rope around the mooring. Same as last time it was wrapped many times around the mooring string. This happened cause of the wind during the night.

Next morning we started to Martinique. I had agreed with the captain to make a final decision about leaving the boat or not if we arrive Le Marin. As the boat will stay there until the middle of February. This was a little pressure on my mind. I figured out the decisions, in general, makes me nervous. I fear to do a wrong one, I guess – even if I have learned that it makes no sense to complain about the past.

The sail to Martinique was easy and chilled. We headed for Fort a Fance, the main capital of Martinique. The Bay of Fort a France is huge. So huge that speed ferrys crossing from one side to the other like subways. Green and red tons guides us the way to the aanchorage and it was a surprise as the anchorige dosn’t look that ugly as I have expected. We place the boat in front of the wall of an old fortress and it was just some meters to reach the shore.

As this was Isabelle’s last evening we decided to go ashore for dinner. The area around the dock looked pretty nice. Many old buildings, a lot of people on the streets, music playing everywhere, palm trees and a soft warm wind surrounded us. On top, we found a veggie restaurant where we eat a small plate for plenty of money. Anyway, I liked it here and so my hopes were growing that Le Marin might be worthy to stay.

The next day Martha and I explored the city a bit more. It was Sunday and mainly all the shops were closed but it was nice walking around. The area looked like it might be fun staying around. People were super friendly. After we took a look into an old cathedral a man in the street stops us, and ask if we might want to have a look at his art gallery. We agreed and he opens the door only for us. All stuff that was on sale was unique and handmade by local artists. There was wonderful paintings, upcycled jewelry, and handmade clothes. Sadly all the stuff was a bit too expensive for us, but in the end, I bought a pair of earrings. Made of wood in the shape of pineapples and burned patterns on it.

Street Arte in Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Beautiful Doves in Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
Streets of Martinique
cof
Streets of Martinique
Art in Martinique
The pier
The pier

As we returned to the boat we become a witness of a sailing race done on traditional sailboats. The hull of the boats was made of wood, the shape of the sail was a square and the crew hand to lean out of the boat on long wooden bars to keep the boat upright in the wind. They were astonishing fast and just by watching it, it was clear that it must be fun to be part of the crew and sailing.

Martinique and traditional sailing boats

Then it was time to say goodbye to Isabelle and Michael, who had to head back home. The evening was quite and I spent a lot of time with thinking about my options how to go on. Next morning, so our plan, we would go to Le Marin and than I had to make a final decision.

Sunset in Martinique
Sunset in Martinique

Mayreau and the Tobago Keys, Black Boy and Leon

Finally, we could convince our captain to head in the direction to the Tobago Keys. A heavy wind was forecasted but our passage was mainly easy. Our first stop was the Salt Whistle Bay which is part of Mayreau. A very beautiful bay, filled with sailboats that were escaping the upcoming winds in the evening. Ashore was just 20m away from the boat and Martha and I jumped directly into the water to swim there.

Sadly the water was blurry and nothing to see in it, but somehow this should be a lucky way, as I found 20EC on the ground of the sea. The view of the bay was like on a postcard. Palm trees, white sand, nice little huts and friendly people around us. As usual, some boat boys had guided us to our mooring spot and invites us to come for a visit to the last bar on the beach. I invited Martha to a drink that we paid from the just found 20 EC.

The Bay
The Bay
Schooner

Quickly we got into a conversation with the owner of the bar and the chef of the kitchen. We explained that we are vegan and vegetarian and the chef offered us to cook something special for us in the evening. So we swam back to our boat and talked to the rest of the crew if they might join us for a dinner ashore later. They agreed.

The evening started with a meet-up of an American patchwork family and their 3 kids. The father of the family had caught a fish during the day and had made a deal with the owner of the bar, that the owner can keep the rest of the fish after the family was fed.

Martha and I got the promised special vegan and vegetarian diet, what we truly enjoyed. The awkward moment happened to me, as I run my rum with coke over the pants of the family father, but luckily another drink was dropped so that I don’t felt so much ashamed anymore.

Quickly it turned out that we – the youth – would love to spend the evening ashore. Accidentally we run into the group of French people that we saw a few days ago in the bay of Bequia the first time. We recognized them cause they had a very beautiful boat and a sign on it that it is for sale. Beneteau Oceanis 44 in white with shiny orange stripes. These group of French people must have been professional party people as I didn’t can name a date were I drunk that much before. Anyway, it was a super nice evening as the owner of the boat starts singing, dancing and playing some rhythm instruments later on. As Martha decided to stay on land, I take the opportunity to go back on board by a lift from the French group. We stopped by their boat but I was too drunk to see anything. I knew already that he wants to sell the boat for 70.000 so I spoke out an offer on 50.000. I’m not sure if it might be a good sign that he didn’t agree directly. So far I have learned that it is a good idea to buy a boat which is inactive sailing and not on land or anchorage for a longer time. This guy sails the boat for 4 years.

Next morning I was sick and not even in condition to visit the boat again. Instead, I visited a local guy whom boat stand next to ours. His name was Black Boy and he was in the company of two boys. One in the age of 13-14 and one little boys in the age of 3-4. It was obvious that they were not rich and I wonder why they prefer to live on the boat and not on land. My thought was that reason might be, that the boat offers the better conditions. The Boat was an old boat made of concrete. The hull was already full of green, and clearly, this boat won’t sail anymore.

Black boy recognized just from looking to my side that I might have a hangover. He offered us some self-made coconut bread, what we agreed on to buy it. I jumped into the water and swam to his boat. We talked a little bit and he explained that he adopted the boys. The older boy with name Leon, he found on a market in Trinidad. His mother, he explained, was crazy and not able to take care of the kid. So he offered him to stay with him. The school system in St. Vincent and the Grenadines is free for primary school but you have to pay for high school. The cost is 250€ a year what they were not able to effort. I felt so sorry for the boys and honestly, I was not sure if the engagement from Black Boy really was in a good thought or not. Leon had to paddle the dinghy often and also I saw him cleaning the dishes and doing other things working. The small boy didn’t say much and gives the impression that he is good. But anyway I had doubts.

After a little nap, I swam over to Black Boys boat again and explained to him about Airbnb. My hope was that he will find a possibility to make a living on this. He understands very well, and directly he came up with the idea to make an apartment out of the boat. I felt happy. Then I bought a pair of fins from our captain and gave them as a present to Leon. I told him he should read as many books as possible and that I will send him some letters from Germany. I hope he will make it.

In total, we stayed two nights in the bay and then headed to the Tobago Keys. We welcomed Michael on board, who joined us escaping from his old crew. He was a very experienced sailor and it was interesting to listen to his talks about sailing.

The sail to the Tobago Keys was just around the corner and we reached it within two hours. Sadly it was very windy and a strong current was in the water. Martha and I took the Dhingy and drive to the sandbank in front of us. It was funny as we had to put the Dhingy up to land, and we really struggled a little. The wind was so strong that the sand of the island was blown around like in a sandstorm. We took your snorkeling equipment and jumped into the water. The water was very shallow and lots of broken corals were on the ground. Nothing spectecular to see, except a very big puffer fish.

Our attempt to put the Dhingy back to water was even more funny and struggeling as to put it to land. But somehow we managed. Back on the boat I saw turtles swimming around and I was sad that the current was so strong. Two hours later, Isabelle, Michael, Martha and I started another attempt. We took the Dhinghy to the belt of reefs and tired it to one of the prepared moorings. We jumped into the water like as we are divers. The wind and the current was so strong that we hardly could swim against it and also there was not much to see. I could hear the imaginary sad trumped in my head.

In the meantime when we were in the water I got a message from Monique who recommends a place to go for us. But as the wind was horribly strong, I don’t even ask the captain to move there. On the map, the place looked great, but I had figured out in the meantime that a question like this would be senseless. It was already clear that the next morning our captain would love to leave the keys early and we then head back to Soufriere again.

So I guess I have to go there again 🙂

Soufriair and Bequia – Part 2

As the announcement about the higher costs changes my perspective about the trip, I and Martha become pushier to force our captain to sail more. So we left Rodney Bay after two nights.

We headed back to Soufrier, what was not our most loved spot so far. Isabel, the daughter of our captain informs me that her mother is not a person who loves to be on a sailboat. Which means that the planned stay in Martinique will not be a period of sails around the island.

As, from my point of view, our behavior against the boat boys was not very polite, I decided to act on them this time different. As the apporached, I apologized for our behavior last time and explained the reason of the double payment is not a nice thing. I explained further that I can understand them and that I agree that it is important that the local people get their cut from the generated income that comes by the tourist industrie.

I think they were happy about my thoughts and this time they were very polite. They placed our mooring directly upon a very nice snorkeling area. Just one jump away and then directly in the middle. I did some nice pictures and also our visit on land was this time a little brighter. We stayed for three nights. Even if I would have stayed a bit longer, Martha pushed our captain to go on. The main goal was to make it until the Tobago Keys which was a mention of our captain to be very beautiful.

Useful Products
Useful Products
The harbor of Soufrier
My workplace in Soufrier
My workplace in Soufrier
Our view from the mooring
Our view from the mooring
Our view from the mooring
Our view from the mooring
Spectacles in heaven
Spectacles in heaven
My destiny ?

As we had to be in Martinique at the 25th of November time becomes running. Depending on the wind our captain had was uncertain if we will have enough time to reach them. This was the reason that we constantly pushed our captain to go on. So we left Soufrier and headed back to Bequia.

I’m not sure if I already had mentioned that our Autopilot was gone. One morning it simply does not work anymore, so now during sailing someone had to steer the boat. The sea was perfect when we started but becomes more and more rough as closer we got to Bequia. The distance between Soufrier and Bequia is a good one day sailing. So the sun was already down as we arrive in the bay. The wind had become up to 20 knots and it was very good that we already known the bay that well.

Our captain decided for a different anchorage this time, one that was more close to the main land, but without a protective mountain in our front. As we wanted to set the anchor, the anchor winsh won’t work anymore. It was a shocking moment as for one minute we thought that we now had to spend the night in the strong wind outside of the bay, with one person steering the whole night, but we could convince our captain to go for a mooring. The mooring maneuver was tricky, as the wind drifted the boat quickly. We needed four approaches until we finally got the mooring.

As the mooring was expensive and still the wind was very strong, the next day we placed the boat more close to the beach where we was last time. Martha and I swam ashore to meet Leon in his bar. As we arrived there a bunch of people was his guest. We started talking, took a drink and quickly it becomes a party like atmosphere.

I returned to the boat but Martha stayed during the night. As she had made friends the night it happened that the next we I found myself in the company of this group. There was Katie – a girl from Germany, Claudia – a girl from Italy, Alex – a guy from Canada and we headed for a secret beach on the Atlantic side of the island. The trip started with a Taxi drive to the other side of the island, which was dominated by very steep roads up the mountains and ended up at a mansion from a German guy who lived there. He explained to us where to go so we started walking. Shortly after we started a little black dog comes in our direction. It looked like he was living on a property that we pass on our way. His fur was very shiny and he had a collar. The dog joined us and gave us the impression of guiding us through our way. The house around was all super impressive and the view was simply amazing. We had to leave the street and follow a little path downhill. The pass ends up in front of the beach, where there were three cows on a piece of green. The cows watched us but didn’t move even if they were free.

The beach was located in a huge bay, surounded by high mountains covered in crooked trees. The trees were grown from the wind into one direction and overall the effects from the rough weather was visible. The waves was high and not really made for swimming, but we got into the water a little. Each one of us started to walk around and explore the area. We found an old building behind some coconut trees, we made it to open one of the coconuts and enjoyed eating the flesh of it. Eeach of us had collected some plastic from the beach and also we found an old bucket that we use to put our collection in. Next to the old building we found another path back to the top and decided to take this one. The dog, still in our company followed us. We was joking that he really is an amazing guide and was astonished as we found a land turtle deep in the woods, passing our way.

As we finally reached the top, it turned out that our doggy-guide was not what we expected. It was more than maybe the dog was in hope that we adopt him. We walked a bit around but soon we discover that we don’t know how to return to the street where we were coming from. We decided to order a taxi and now had to make a decision what to do with the dog. I guess it was me as a dog lover who forced the others to bring the dog back to the place where he had joined us. This decision cost us 10EC but I promised to cover it. As we reached the area where we picked him up, it doesn’t look for me like he is home there. Anyway, I had to let him go. This day was what I would call a Robinson-Day. Just wonderful!

The view from the top of the mountain
On our way
The view down to the beach
The beach
The beach
Hidden beach Bequia
Our doggy guide
Our doggy guide
The land turtle

Bequia felt like home already. We joined one of the famous street parties, met friends at the vegetable market, chilled out at Leon’s beach bar, and the day’s flows quickly. The wind calms down and finally, we could head to our next destination. The Tobago Keys!

St. Lucia – Soufriere, Castries & Rodeny Bay

As we had to get in the daughter from the captain in Castries, we had to leave Bequia after 5 days. Our passage would drive us along the coast of St. Vincent up north to St. Lucia. St. Lucia is known for its landmark the Deux Pitones. Our captain told us that there is a bay with a private resort in the middle of the Pitones and that we can go there for anchorage.

Our passage started early in the morning with very good sailing conditions. Clear blue sky, enough wind but no high waves. I and Martha were very motivated as we didn’t sail that much so far. Our sailing maneuvers had improved so far and our teamwork runs pretty smoothly.

Shortly after we left the area close to land, we got some pretty good wind and also the company of some seabirds. These seabirds were really fun to watch as they are amazingly talented in flying, hunting, and diving. I’m not sure what they do, but it looked like the ship makes the flying fishes run in front of the boat. Also, it looked like the birds use the terms of the sails or the shadow to get a good position for their hunt. Once they see a fish, they rush down like an arrow, dive up to 1m deep into the ocean and try to make their catch. Wonderful to watch.

Also, the Deux Pitones was cool to watch. Already from 20km away they were very well visible at the horizon. As more close you come as more impressive they are. Then when you finally pass them, its hard to keep the mouth closed while watching them. Inside of the bay is a private resort & spa. The houses looked like build from matchsticks or taken from the build mode in The Sim’s. Unreal in this nature and unreal is the difference wealth between this spa and the local people.

A not that nice side effect from leaving St. Vincent was, that the locals who offer you vegetables, fish or help with the moorings ins St. Lucia was quite pushier than in St. Vincent. A young guy comes with his boat already when we were nearly 2 SM far away. He told us that he is the boat guide and that he will guide us to the mooring. Later on a boat with marine rangers appears and they also take a payment for the anchorage. So we paid twice!

Cool Guy
Distant Thunder
How to buy vegetables in the Carribeean
Unreal housing
Sunset
Light on the one Piton

Next day we drive our vessel around the corner to the city Soufriere. Once this was the main capital of St. Lucia but today is not much left from that time. You found a lot of old houses but all in not very good conditions. Also, the people on the streets looked more desperate then on the other Islands where we had been so far. We found a cafe where the owner of the cafe plant, peel and roast the coffee himself. Also, he had a friend in the Cafe (Zaka, Caribbean Totem, and Mask) who sold self-made soaps. „Forever young,“ says the promising title but sadly cost of import is so height that it might stay a local product. Anyway, the iced self-made coffee was a really good one and definitely worth the 5€ that it costs.

Streets of Soufrier
Streets of Soufrier
Streets of Soufrier
Streets of Soufrier
The queen was here
And her son
Streets of Soufrier
Streets of Soufrier
Streets of Soufrier

As we had to get the daughter of the skipper from Castries, we left Soufriere quickly and headed north. Castries is the main capital of St. Vincent today. As we sail along the coast it was clearly visible that as more north we sail it more touristic it becomes. This impression was crowned when we entered the harbor of Castries as we have to pass along a very big Cruiseship. The dimension of this ships is simply not from this world. Everything seems to be too small next to them. Approximately 2900 people can drive on one of this ships and when you pass the side you see balcony next to the balcony. I totally can’t understand why people do such a trip. We pass one side of the Cruise ship and found our selves in the middle of the „harbor“ which was located in the middle of the city. Our view mixed with an area where container ships and containers were managed, three cruise ships in total, a street with 4 lanes, and some very big buildings around us. Ashore was a karaoke bar, and we were able to hear the singing also on the boat. I’m not a singer but this sound was the worst I have ever heard. The mix of all these impressions colors the whole scene in something unreal.

Castris Harbor
Crusie Ship Maniac
We are downtown
We are downtown
We are downtown
We are downtown

The next morning started with a bad surprise for me. As our captain breaks down the cost we had so far, it turned out that he wants us to pay a shared for the cost of the boat too. 50€ a week plus a contribution for each hour the engine is running and the shared cost for food on top. This ends up that the cost for the month was somewhere around 950€ instead on the earlier announced 650€. As I also spent some private money for drinks, food, and stuff when we were ashore I end up on costs around 1300€ for the whole month.

This was definitely not the budget I have planned for the trip. The fact that our captain and I obviously had different ideas about where to anchor and what places to visit, I started to consider my possibilities. On top, it started to rain heavily.

Rodney Bay is the bay where the ARC (The race to cross the Atlantic) ends up. It was over touristic, ugly and boring. The ongoing permanent rain, my thought about the situation and the fact that there was not much to see ends up in the situation that I only take one picture. It is this one:

Bequia – amazing pearl, very strong rum and Simeon the local hero.

Somehow I start being afraid to start each following articles with the words, that this place has been the most beautiful so far. For Bequia, this is totally true. Bequia is next to St. Vincent the biggest Island in St. Vincent and the Grenadines. The whole island is specialized on yacht people and sailors. Sure one reason that Bequia is loved by sailors is that the Admiralty Bay comes, with perfect conditions. By nature, the surrounding hills form a save and calm bay where it is easy to stay on anchorage and has enough space to give a home to boats.

Approximately 8000 people live on Bequia. It is a pleasure to walk along the coastline, and watch and visit all the colorful houses, shops and bars. The people of Bequia totally have understood how to make a place good looking. With lots of love for details, one house is more beautiful than the other one and you can’t stop watching while go walk along.

Bequia

Jabulo was on anchoridge in a aproximatly 7 min. drive with the Dinhgy. Not that the beauty on land was already mindblowing, no – also we had the luck that our anchoridge was located in the daily life area of two sea turtles. While snorkeling, each time in an unexpected manner, they appear into your view. As you met them so often, sometimes I had the luck to swim several minutes with them together.

It was surprising, that Google couldn’t deliver much information about the daily routine of sea turtles. It was written that they normally live a nomadic lifestyle. All three years they get together to find a partner and copulation. In the early years, the eat a diet that includes meat and later on they becom vegetarian. In the age of 15 years they become fertile and they can reach 50 years of age. Sadly the time we spent here was not long enough to figure out more about their daily life. Also I didnt had the impression that the fact that here was two of them, looked like they were a couple. What I can say is that it was pure joy to watch them each day.

Next, to the turtles, we discover a yellow, black sea snake, an octopus who had lost one tentacle, a group of pufferfish, that seem to protect the snake and a big shell of a muscle that I sadly could not reach by diving. Same as in the other bays there were local people that drive around and offer lobster, ice, diesel, laundry, vegetables, and other stuff.

Alex was the name of the guy who droves this lobster boat. When he comes into my view, he hold up the poor lobster up in the air and the lobster snaps his tail and tried to escape. I shout to Alex that I just want to set the lobster free if I would buy him. That seemt to be unbelivable for Alex. He comes closer with his boat and we start to talk about a possible deal. I have to confess that he totaly ripped me off, as I pay 60EC for the lobster, but that was not that important to me in this moment. Alex asked me about 2-3 times if I’m serious in what I’m saying, if I really want to set the lobster free. I had to confirm more than once and finaly we choose one of the tree lobster to set him free. Plums, and then he runs down in the water and sink to the ground. The water was clear and Alex followed the lobster for some moments. We both laugh and say goodby – and in my mind I named the lobster George.

While we explore the village we was informed that on Fridays and Saturdays people do dance partys on the street and we definetly should visit them by chance. So we decided to have some drinks upfront and than check out if we will have luck to join one of the partys. This journey seems to be so healthy to me that I hardly make it to stay awake longer than 8 p.m. We agreed on the old people go back to the boat and the young people goes back to land to join the party. But then we been shocked.

As we arrived the Dhingy dock, our Dinghy was not there. Our thoughts run from someone has stolen the Dhingy to my knot was not strong enough. In my head I saw a big 5000€ number blinking as this was the expected cost for the Dinghy. We decided to go back to the bar where we were before and aks the owner for help. The owner of the bar (Papa’s) called the police and a few minutes later two young officers in civil clothes arrive at the bar. They aks us to join their car (also a civil car and in a very bad condition) to drive down to the dinghy dock. The car was iching and scratching while driving and it must have looked very funny how we three sit in the back of this tiny car.

Down at the dinghy dock we discover that the police does not have a boat for such situation. As it was already dark we dont calculated any chance in finding the Dhingy when it floats free in the bay during the night. We also was informed that maybe someone took the Dinghy a ride (Taxi). While we discribed how the Dhingy looked like, we saw another Dhingy not far in directon of the next left Dhingy dock. As we started to move over there a man appears and started to tell the police officer that he have seen someone driving away to the right side of the bay and that he wonder as he saw that, cause he saw us coming in this Dinghy

The man, we later should discover was named Simeon, develop to our local hero. It turned out that his observations was correct and because we now had an idea of direction, the officers seem to know where to go. Again we drove in their car two bays ahead and then luckily found our dhinghi there. What a luck!

Two days later we invited Simeon for a drink and I really enjoyed the talk with him. He was an easy, honest, polite and giving person who loved football. In his free time he train a youth group and did this quite good. I promised him to send a new original Trikot to him, when I’m back home. That one that he was wearing was quite old. Sadly to late I understand that instead of a new Trikot he would more like to make a donation to his team. Wow.. I like people like that.

Everlasting memories! Next Stop St. Lucia.

Carriacou / Grenada

So far, Carriacou was the nicest place we have visited. When we arrived we place Jabulo in Tyrell Bay. Tyrell Bay is quite full with sailboats and you will recognize that most boats look like designed for longer passages. Many boats with aluminum hull and a quiet atmosphere along the ships.

We had the luck that directly next to our anchorage there were two nice shipwrecks in the bay. Perfect for snorkeling. Also, the water in the bay was pretty good in comparison to Trinidad for example. So I directly jumped into the water, stuffed with my camera and take a look at the wrecks.

As it was already afternoon and the sun starts to rise, the light underwater made a perfect image when I approach the first wreck. Like in a picture book, you could see the front of the ship, the driver’s place and a big winch in the back of the ship. One side was completely gone, but the other side remains half. There where the walls of the ship offer some shadow, fishes use the boat as protection or a playground. There was no new species so far and also the number of different species was not overwhelming but, as it was just one jump away from our boat, it gives a nice space for exploration.

With my constant need of WIFI, we decided to stay until Tuesday, cause I had a phone call that day. The mobile data doesn’t work well at our anchorage so I had to move to a restaurant at the beach. The Lazy Turtle restaurant invites you with fancy lights in the evening, and a colorful wall painting in the day. The Lazy Turtle had a dinghy dock in front with a little pear that seems to end directly at the beginning of their stairs for entrance.

Lazy Turtle Restaurant

View from the Restaurant into the bay

On our first visit to the Lazy Turtle, we allowed us to have a cocktail. I had a very good Mojito and I would not say that I felt drunk, but as we return to the boat and I tried to grab the grip at the boat, I fell over. I and the bag with my computer landed in the water. All my thoughts were with my computer and after managed to hand the bag to Uwe, I helped to pull the Dinghy to the boat. It must have looked very funny how I fall into the water, and after I ensured that my computer was super dry and safe, I could finally laugh about myself. What a mess! 🙂

The next day we did another shipwreck visit and brave Martha really manage to find my sunglasses that I had lost the night before, where I did my unwanted dive into the water. As there was a very big see star on the ground I didn’t manage to focus on my sunglasses and later on neither I or Martha was able to find the classes again.

The next day we lift anchor and headed by motor to Sandy I. A sand bay in front of Hillsborough Bay. Hilsborow bay is the second bay on Carriacou and an Immigration is located there. We wanted to declare out the next morning and decided to stay overnight at Sandy I, where a nice little reef was located. Sandy I is a man-made bay from the sand with some palm trees and other green. The perfect location for a perfect Caribbean picture.

As the area around Sandy I is declared as protected marine area, you are not allowed to throw your anchor. But a bunch of mourning is in front of the bay. We caught one and as fast as I can I jumped into the water. I and Martha wanted to figure out if it is possible to swim over to the beach bay, but after we pass one reef the water becomes very shallow and it seems to be impossible to reach the coast without touching the ground. We both decided that we don’t want to put us on such risk and decided just to explore the area a bit.

In the reef, a lot of different species lived there. I caught one fish on camera that I never have seen before. Also, huge fish swarms were around. It was very interesting to see. The younger fish swam in the outside of the swarm, and in the inside, the more old fish swam. Like a protection ring around that fish that is able to produce new fish. Clever!. Martha swam completely into the swarm and it looked amazing how she was surrounded by all the little fishies.

I also saw a big stingray. But he was too far away as I could catch him on camera. Also, the water was so shallow that I must have got very close to him, what I don’t want. But overall it was a nice swim and snorkeling. On the surface, we could watch Pelikan birds with their amazing talent to catch fish. They fly up, look into the water, and then fall down like an arrow. They dive into the water with their heads and half of the body, catch the fish and lift up into the sky. Fantastic!

The afternoon was filled and completed first with Roney, a young guy who sold vegetables and fruit to us. This is something that you will experience a lot here in the Caribbean. Local people who came by on a small boat, to sell fruit, oyster, lobster or take away your trash. Our Romney surprisingly had good tomatoes, which we bought and a bunch of bananas. He told us that he also works as DJ but none of us caught the invitation to figure out how professional he might be.

Then sunset began, and it was one of this sunset that keeps you speechless for 60min. Started with the sun that falls down directly in the middle of two big rocks on the horizon, followed by orange and yellow that filled the wide area, break at the clouds and makes the sky look like it burns. As there were many clouds in the sky the colors and shapes seem to be endless, even after the sun was already down. How blessed I am!

Diese Diashow benötigt JavaScript.

The forecast speaks about heavy winds in the afternoon, so we decided to start quickly. First, we drive the boat by the motor to Hillsborough Bay, and then approach land to clear out at immigration. To bad that we didn’t have more time here. Such a nice and lovely place!! So sweet buildings, shops, and interesting looking people. As far as I have understood only 800 – 900 people living on Carriacou, so it is not a metropole area, but I definitely could imagine having a wonderful holiday here.

Pelican Birds
Hillsborough Bay
Hillsborough Bay
Hillsborough Bay
Gospel for free
Hillsborough Bay