St. Vincent and the Grenadines Archive

Mayreau and the Tobago Keys, Black Boy and Leon

Finally, we could convince our captain to head in the direction to the Tobago Keys. A heavy wind was forecasted but our passage was mainly easy. Our first stop was the Salt Whistle Bay which is part of Mayreau. A very beautiful bay, filled with sailboats that were escaping the upcoming winds in the evening. Ashore was just 20m away from the boat and Martha and I jumped directly into the water to swim there.

Sadly the water was blurry and nothing to see in it, but somehow this should be a lucky way, as I found 20EC on the ground of the sea. The view of the bay was like on a postcard. Palm trees, white sand, nice little huts and friendly people around us. As usual, some boat boys had guided us to our mooring spot and invites us to come for a visit to the last bar on the beach. I invited Martha to a drink that we paid from the just found 20 EC.

The Bay
The Bay
Schooner

Quickly we got into a conversation with the owner of the bar and the chef of the kitchen. We explained that we are vegan and vegetarian and the chef offered us to cook something special for us in the evening. So we swam back to our boat and talked to the rest of the crew if they might join us for a dinner ashore later. They agreed.

The evening started with a meet-up of an American patchwork family and their 3 kids. The father of the family had caught a fish during the day and had made a deal with the owner of the bar, that the owner can keep the rest of the fish after the family was fed.

Martha and I got the promised special vegan and vegetarian diet, what we truly enjoyed. The awkward moment happened to me, as I run my rum with coke over the pants of the family father, but luckily another drink was dropped so that I don’t felt so much ashamed anymore.

Quickly it turned out that we – the youth – would love to spend the evening ashore. Accidentally we run into the group of French people that we saw a few days ago in the bay of Bequia the first time. We recognized them cause they had a very beautiful boat and a sign on it that it is for sale. Beneteau Oceanis 44 in white with shiny orange stripes. These group of French people must have been professional party people as I didn’t can name a date were I drunk that much before. Anyway, it was a super nice evening as the owner of the boat starts singing, dancing and playing some rhythm instruments later on. As Martha decided to stay on land, I take the opportunity to go back on board by a lift from the French group. We stopped by their boat but I was too drunk to see anything. I knew already that he wants to sell the boat for 70.000 so I spoke out an offer on 50.000. I’m not sure if it might be a good sign that he didn’t agree directly. So far I have learned that it is a good idea to buy a boat which is inactive sailing and not on land or anchorage for a longer time. This guy sails the boat for 4 years.

Next morning I was sick and not even in condition to visit the boat again. Instead, I visited a local guy whom boat stand next to ours. His name was Black Boy and he was in the company of two boys. One in the age of 13-14 and one little boys in the age of 3-4. It was obvious that they were not rich and I wonder why they prefer to live on the boat and not on land. My thought was that reason might be, that the boat offers the better conditions. The Boat was an old boat made of concrete. The hull was already full of green, and clearly, this boat won’t sail anymore.

Black boy recognized just from looking to my side that I might have a hangover. He offered us some self-made coconut bread, what we agreed on to buy it. I jumped into the water and swam to his boat. We talked a little bit and he explained that he adopted the boys. The older boy with name Leon, he found on a market in Trinidad. His mother, he explained, was crazy and not able to take care of the kid. So he offered him to stay with him. The school system in St. Vincent and the Grenadines is free for primary school but you have to pay for high school. The cost is 250€ a year what they were not able to effort. I felt so sorry for the boys and honestly, I was not sure if the engagement from Black Boy really was in a good thought or not. Leon had to paddle the dinghy often and also I saw him cleaning the dishes and doing other things working. The small boy didn’t say much and gives the impression that he is good. But anyway I had doubts.

After a little nap, I swam over to Black Boys boat again and explained to him about Airbnb. My hope was that he will find a possibility to make a living on this. He understands very well, and directly he came up with the idea to make an apartment out of the boat. I felt happy. Then I bought a pair of fins from our captain and gave them as a present to Leon. I told him he should read as many books as possible and that I will send him some letters from Germany. I hope he will make it.

In total, we stayed two nights in the bay and then headed to the Tobago Keys. We welcomed Michael on board, who joined us escaping from his old crew. He was a very experienced sailor and it was interesting to listen to his talks about sailing.

The sail to the Tobago Keys was just around the corner and we reached it within two hours. Sadly it was very windy and a strong current was in the water. Martha and I took the Dhingy and drive to the sandbank in front of us. It was funny as we had to put the Dhingy up to land, and we really struggled a little. The wind was so strong that the sand of the island was blown around like in a sandstorm. We took your snorkeling equipment and jumped into the water. The water was very shallow and lots of broken corals were on the ground. Nothing spectecular to see, except a very big puffer fish.

Our attempt to put the Dhingy back to water was even more funny and struggeling as to put it to land. But somehow we managed. Back on the boat I saw turtles swimming around and I was sad that the current was so strong. Two hours later, Isabelle, Michael, Martha and I started another attempt. We took the Dhinghy to the belt of reefs and tired it to one of the prepared moorings. We jumped into the water like as we are divers. The wind and the current was so strong that we hardly could swim against it and also there was not much to see. I could hear the imaginary sad trumped in my head.

In the meantime when we were in the water I got a message from Monique who recommends a place to go for us. But as the wind was horribly strong, I don’t even ask the captain to move there. On the map, the place looked great, but I had figured out in the meantime that a question like this would be senseless. It was already clear that the next morning our captain would love to leave the keys early and we then head back to Soufriere again.

So I guess I have to go there again 🙂

Soufriair and Bequia – Part 2

As the announcement about the higher costs changes my perspective about the trip, I and Martha become pushier to force our captain to sail more. So we left Rodney Bay after two nights.

We headed back to Soufrier, what was not our most loved spot so far. Isabel, the daughter of our captain informs me that her mother is not a person who loves to be on a sailboat. Which means that the planned stay in Martinique will not be a period of sails around the island.

As, from my point of view, our behavior against the boat boys was not very polite, I decided to act on them this time different. As the apporached, I apologized for our behavior last time and explained the reason of the double payment is not a nice thing. I explained further that I can understand them and that I agree that it is important that the local people get their cut from the generated income that comes by the tourist industrie.

I think they were happy about my thoughts and this time they were very polite. They placed our mooring directly upon a very nice snorkeling area. Just one jump away and then directly in the middle. I did some nice pictures and also our visit on land was this time a little brighter. We stayed for three nights. Even if I would have stayed a bit longer, Martha pushed our captain to go on. The main goal was to make it until the Tobago Keys which was a mention of our captain to be very beautiful.

Useful Products
Useful Products
The harbor of Soufrier
My workplace in Soufrier
My workplace in Soufrier
Our view from the mooring
Our view from the mooring
Our view from the mooring
Our view from the mooring
Spectacles in heaven
Spectacles in heaven
My destiny ?

As we had to be in Martinique at the 25th of November time becomes running. Depending on the wind our captain had was uncertain if we will have enough time to reach them. This was the reason that we constantly pushed our captain to go on. So we left Soufrier and headed back to Bequia.

I’m not sure if I already had mentioned that our Autopilot was gone. One morning it simply does not work anymore, so now during sailing someone had to steer the boat. The sea was perfect when we started but becomes more and more rough as closer we got to Bequia. The distance between Soufrier and Bequia is a good one day sailing. So the sun was already down as we arrive in the bay. The wind had become up to 20 knots and it was very good that we already known the bay that well.

Our captain decided for a different anchorage this time, one that was more close to the main land, but without a protective mountain in our front. As we wanted to set the anchor, the anchor winsh won’t work anymore. It was a shocking moment as for one minute we thought that we now had to spend the night in the strong wind outside of the bay, with one person steering the whole night, but we could convince our captain to go for a mooring. The mooring maneuver was tricky, as the wind drifted the boat quickly. We needed four approaches until we finally got the mooring.

As the mooring was expensive and still the wind was very strong, the next day we placed the boat more close to the beach where we was last time. Martha and I swam ashore to meet Leon in his bar. As we arrived there a bunch of people was his guest. We started talking, took a drink and quickly it becomes a party like atmosphere.

I returned to the boat but Martha stayed during the night. As she had made friends the night it happened that the next we I found myself in the company of this group. There was Katie – a girl from Germany, Claudia – a girl from Italy, Alex – a guy from Canada and we headed for a secret beach on the Atlantic side of the island. The trip started with a Taxi drive to the other side of the island, which was dominated by very steep roads up the mountains and ended up at a mansion from a German guy who lived there. He explained to us where to go so we started walking. Shortly after we started a little black dog comes in our direction. It looked like he was living on a property that we pass on our way. His fur was very shiny and he had a collar. The dog joined us and gave us the impression of guiding us through our way. The house around was all super impressive and the view was simply amazing. We had to leave the street and follow a little path downhill. The pass ends up in front of the beach, where there were three cows on a piece of green. The cows watched us but didn’t move even if they were free.

The beach was located in a huge bay, surounded by high mountains covered in crooked trees. The trees were grown from the wind into one direction and overall the effects from the rough weather was visible. The waves was high and not really made for swimming, but we got into the water a little. Each one of us started to walk around and explore the area. We found an old building behind some coconut trees, we made it to open one of the coconuts and enjoyed eating the flesh of it. Eeach of us had collected some plastic from the beach and also we found an old bucket that we use to put our collection in. Next to the old building we found another path back to the top and decided to take this one. The dog, still in our company followed us. We was joking that he really is an amazing guide and was astonished as we found a land turtle deep in the woods, passing our way.

As we finally reached the top, it turned out that our doggy-guide was not what we expected. It was more than maybe the dog was in hope that we adopt him. We walked a bit around but soon we discover that we don’t know how to return to the street where we were coming from. We decided to order a taxi and now had to make a decision what to do with the dog. I guess it was me as a dog lover who forced the others to bring the dog back to the place where he had joined us. This decision cost us 10EC but I promised to cover it. As we reached the area where we picked him up, it doesn’t look for me like he is home there. Anyway, I had to let him go. This day was what I would call a Robinson-Day. Just wonderful!

The view from the top of the mountain
On our way
The view down to the beach
The beach
The beach
Hidden beach Bequia
Our doggy guide
Our doggy guide
The land turtle

Bequia felt like home already. We joined one of the famous street parties, met friends at the vegetable market, chilled out at Leon’s beach bar, and the day’s flows quickly. The wind calms down and finally, we could head to our next destination. The Tobago Keys!

Bequia – amazing pearl, very strong rum and Simeon the local hero.

Somehow I start being afraid to start each following articles with the words, that this place has been the most beautiful so far. For Bequia, this is totally true. Bequia is next to St. Vincent the biggest Island in St. Vincent and the Grenadines. The whole island is specialized on yacht people and sailors. Sure one reason that Bequia is loved by sailors is that the Admiralty Bay comes, with perfect conditions. By nature, the surrounding hills form a save and calm bay where it is easy to stay on anchorage and has enough space to give a home to boats.

Approximately 8000 people live on Bequia. It is a pleasure to walk along the coastline, and watch and visit all the colorful houses, shops and bars. The people of Bequia totally have understood how to make a place good looking. With lots of love for details, one house is more beautiful than the other one and you can’t stop watching while go walk along.

Bequia

Jabulo was on anchoridge in a aproximatly 7 min. drive with the Dinhgy. Not that the beauty on land was already mindblowing, no – also we had the luck that our anchoridge was located in the daily life area of two sea turtles. While snorkeling, each time in an unexpected manner, they appear into your view. As you met them so often, sometimes I had the luck to swim several minutes with them together.

It was surprising, that Google couldn’t deliver much information about the daily routine of sea turtles. It was written that they normally live a nomadic lifestyle. All three years they get together to find a partner and copulation. In the early years, the eat a diet that includes meat and later on they becom vegetarian. In the age of 15 years they become fertile and they can reach 50 years of age. Sadly the time we spent here was not long enough to figure out more about their daily life. Also I didnt had the impression that the fact that here was two of them, looked like they were a couple. What I can say is that it was pure joy to watch them each day.

Next, to the turtles, we discover a yellow, black sea snake, an octopus who had lost one tentacle, a group of pufferfish, that seem to protect the snake and a big shell of a muscle that I sadly could not reach by diving. Same as in the other bays there were local people that drive around and offer lobster, ice, diesel, laundry, vegetables, and other stuff.

Alex was the name of the guy who droves this lobster boat. When he comes into my view, he hold up the poor lobster up in the air and the lobster snaps his tail and tried to escape. I shout to Alex that I just want to set the lobster free if I would buy him. That seemt to be unbelivable for Alex. He comes closer with his boat and we start to talk about a possible deal. I have to confess that he totaly ripped me off, as I pay 60EC for the lobster, but that was not that important to me in this moment. Alex asked me about 2-3 times if I’m serious in what I’m saying, if I really want to set the lobster free. I had to confirm more than once and finaly we choose one of the tree lobster to set him free. Plums, and then he runs down in the water and sink to the ground. The water was clear and Alex followed the lobster for some moments. We both laugh and say goodby – and in my mind I named the lobster George.

While we explore the village we was informed that on Fridays and Saturdays people do dance partys on the street and we definetly should visit them by chance. So we decided to have some drinks upfront and than check out if we will have luck to join one of the partys. This journey seems to be so healthy to me that I hardly make it to stay awake longer than 8 p.m. We agreed on the old people go back to the boat and the young people goes back to land to join the party. But then we been shocked.

As we arrived the Dhingy dock, our Dinghy was not there. Our thoughts run from someone has stolen the Dhingy to my knot was not strong enough. In my head I saw a big 5000€ number blinking as this was the expected cost for the Dinghy. We decided to go back to the bar where we were before and aks the owner for help. The owner of the bar (Papa’s) called the police and a few minutes later two young officers in civil clothes arrive at the bar. They aks us to join their car (also a civil car and in a very bad condition) to drive down to the dinghy dock. The car was iching and scratching while driving and it must have looked very funny how we three sit in the back of this tiny car.

Down at the dinghy dock we discover that the police does not have a boat for such situation. As it was already dark we dont calculated any chance in finding the Dhingy when it floats free in the bay during the night. We also was informed that maybe someone took the Dinghy a ride (Taxi). While we discribed how the Dhingy looked like, we saw another Dhingy not far in directon of the next left Dhingy dock. As we started to move over there a man appears and started to tell the police officer that he have seen someone driving away to the right side of the bay and that he wonder as he saw that, cause he saw us coming in this Dinghy

The man, we later should discover was named Simeon, develop to our local hero. It turned out that his observations was correct and because we now had an idea of direction, the officers seem to know where to go. Again we drove in their car two bays ahead and then luckily found our dhinghi there. What a luck!

Two days later we invited Simeon for a drink and I really enjoyed the talk with him. He was an easy, honest, polite and giving person who loved football. In his free time he train a youth group and did this quite good. I promised him to send a new original Trikot to him, when I’m back home. That one that he was wearing was quite old. Sadly to late I understand that instead of a new Trikot he would more like to make a donation to his team. Wow.. I like people like that.

Everlasting memories! Next Stop St. Lucia.