Soufriair and Bequia – Part 2

As the announcement about the higher costs changes my perspective about the trip, I and Martha become pushier to force our captain to sail more. So we left Rodney Bay after two nights.

We headed back to Soufrier, what was not our most loved spot so far. Isabel, the daughter of our captain informs me that her mother is not a person who loves to be on a sailboat. Which means that the planned stay in Martinique will not be a period of sails around the island.

As, from my point of view, our behavior against the boat boys was not very polite, I decided to act on them this time different. As the apporached, I apologized for our behavior last time and explained the reason of the double payment is not a nice thing. I explained further that I can understand them and that I agree that it is important that the local people get their cut from the generated income that comes by the tourist industrie. 

I think they were happy about my thoughts and this time they were very polite. They placed our mooring directly upon a very nice snorkeling area. Just one jump away and then directly in the middle. I did some nice pictures and also our visit on land was this time a little brighter.  We stayed for three nights. Even if I would have stayed a bit longer, Martha pushed our captain to go on. The main goal was to make it until the Tobago Keys which was a mention of our captain to be very beautiful. 

As we had to be in Martinique at the 25th of November time becomes running. Depending on the wind our captain had was uncertain if we will have enough time to reach them. This was the reason that we constantly pushed our captain to go on. So we left Soufrier and headed back to Bequia.

I’m not sure if I already had mentioned that our Autopilot was gone. One morning it simply does not work anymore, so now during sailing someone had to steer the boat. The sea was perfect when we started but becomes more and more rough as closer we got to Bequia. The distance between Soufrier and Bequia is a good one day sailing. So the sun was already down as we arrive in the bay. The wind had become up to 20 knots and it was very good that we already known the bay that well. 

Our captain decided for a different anchorage this time, one that was more close to the main land, but without a protective mountain in our front. As we wanted to set the anchor, the anchor winsh won’t work anymore.  It was a shocking moment as for one minute we thought that we now had to spend the night in the strong wind outside of the bay, with one person steering the whole night, but we could convince our captain to go for a mooring. The mooring maneuver was tricky, as the wind drifted the boat quickly. We needed four approaches until we finally got the mooring. 

As the mooring was expensive and still the wind was very strong, the next day we placed the boat more close to the beach where we was last time. Martha and I swam ashore to meet Leon in his bar. As we arrived there a bunch of people was his guest. We started talking, took a drink and quickly it becomes a party like atmosphere. 

I returned to the boat but Martha stayed during the night. As she had made friends the night it happened that the next we I found myself in the company of this group. There was Katie – a girl from Germany, Claudia – a girl from Italy, Alex – a guy from Canada and we headed for a secret beach on the Atlantic side of the island. The trip started with a Taxi drive to the other side of the island, which was dominated by very steep roads up the mountains and ended up at a mansion from a German guy who lived there. He explained to us where to go so we started walking. Shortly after we started a little black dog comes in our direction. It looked like he was living on a property that we pass on our way. His fur was very shiny and he had a collar. The dog joined us and gave us the impression of guiding us through our way. The house around was all super impressive and the view was simply amazing. We had to leave the street and follow a little path downhill. The pass ends up in front of the beach, where there were three cows on a piece of green. The cows watched us but didn’t move even if they were free.

The beach was located in a huge bay, surounded by high mountains covered in crooked trees. The trees were grown from the wind into one direction and overall the effects from the rough weather was visible. The waves was high and not really made for swimming, but we got into the water a little. Each one of us started to walk around and explore the area. We found an old building behind some coconut trees, we made it to open one of the coconuts and enjoyed eating the flesh of it. Eeach of us had collected some plastic from the beach and also we found an old bucket that we use to put our collection in. Next to the old building we found another path back to the top and decided to take this one. The dog, still in our company followed us. We was joking that he really is an amazing guide and was astonished as we found a land turtle deep in the woods, passing our way. 

As we finally reached the top, it turned out that our doggy-guide was not what we expected. It was more than maybe the dog was in hope that we adopt him. We walked a bit around but soon we discover that we don’t know how to return to the street where we were coming from. We decided to order a taxi and now had to make a decision what to do with the dog. I guess it was me as a dog lover who forced the others to bring the dog back to the place where he had joined us. This decision cost us 10EC but I promised to cover it. As we reached the area where we picked him up, it doesn’t look for me like he is home there. Anyway, I had to let him go. This day was what I would call a Robinson-Day. Just wonderful!

Bequia felt like home already. We joined one of the famous street parties, met friends at the vegetable market, chilled out at Leon’s beach bar, and the day’s flows quickly. The wind calms down and finally, we could head to our next destination. The Tobago Keys! 

St. Lucia – Soufriere, Castries & Rodeny Bay

As we had to get in the daughter from the captain in Castries, we had to leave Bequia after 5 days. Our passage would drive us along the coast of St. Vincent up north to St. Lucia. St. Lucia is known for its landmark the Deux Pitones. Our captain told us that there is a bay with a private resort in the middle of the Pitones and that we can go there for anchorage.

Our passage started early in the morning with very good sailing conditions. Clear blue sky, enough wind but no high waves. I and Martha were very motivated as we didn’t sail that much so far. Our sailing maneuvers had improved so far and our teamwork runs pretty smoothly.

Shortly after we left the area close to land, we got some pretty good wind and also the company of some seabirds. These seabirds were really fun to watch as they are amazingly talented in flying, hunting, and diving. I’m not sure what they do, but it looked like the ship makes the flying fishes run in front of the boat. Also, it looked like the birds use the terms of the sails or the shadow to get a good position for their hunt. Once they see a fish, they rush down like an arrow, dive up to 1m deep into the ocean and try to make their catch. Wonderful to watch.

Also, the Deux Pitones was cool to watch. Already from 20km away they were very well visible at the horizon. As more close you come as more impressive they are. Then when you finally pass them, its hard to keep the mouth closed while watching them. Inside of the bay is a private resort & spa. The houses looked like build from matchsticks or taken from the build mode in The Sim’s. Unreal in this nature and unreal is the difference wealth between this spa and the local people.

A not that nice side effect from leaving St. Vincent was, that the locals who offer you vegetables, fish or help with the moorings ins St. Lucia was quite pushier than in St. Vincent. A young guy comes with his boat already when we were nearly 2 SM far away. He told us that he is the boat guide and that he will guide us to the mooring. Later on a boat with marine rangers appears and they also take a payment for the anchorage. So we paid twice!

Next day we drive our vessel around the corner to the city Soufriere. Once this was the main capital of St. Lucia but today is not much left from that time. You found a lot of old houses but all in not very good conditions. Also, the people on the streets looked more desperate then on the other Islands where we had been so far. We found a cafe where the owner of the cafe plant, peel and roast the coffee himself. Also, he had a friend in the Cafe (Zaka, Caribbean Totem, and Mask) who sold self-made soaps. „Forever young,“ says the promising title but sadly cost of import is so height that it might stay a local product. Anyway, the iced self-made coffee was a really good one and definitely worth the 5€ that it costs.

As we had to get the daughter of the skipper from Castries, we left Soufriere quickly and headed north. Castries is the main capital of St. Vincent today. As we sail along the coast it was clearly visible that as more north we sail it more touristic it becomes. This impression was crowned when we entered the harbor of Castries as we have to pass along a very big Cruiseship. The dimension of this ships is simply not from this world. Everything seems to be too small next to them. Approximately 2900 people can drive on one of this ships and when you pass the side you see balcony next to the balcony. I totally can’t understand why people do such a trip. We pass one side of the Cruise ship and found our selves in the middle of the „harbor“ which was located in the middle of the city. Our view mixed with an area where container ships and containers were managed, three cruise ships in total, a street with 4 lanes, and some very big buildings around us. Ashore was a karaoke bar, and we were able to hear the singing also on the boat. I’m not a singer but this sound was the worst I have ever heard. The mix of all these impressions colors the whole scene in something unreal.

The next morning started with a bad surprise for me. As our captain breaks down the cost we had so far, it turned out that he wants us to pay a shared for the cost of the boat too. 50€ a week plus a contribution for each hour the engine is running and the shared cost for food on top. This ends up that the cost for the month was somewhere around 950€ instead on the earlier announced 650€. As I also spent some private money for drinks, food, and stuff when we were ashore I end up on costs around 1300€ for the whole month.

This was definitely not the budget I have planned for the trip. The fact that our captain and I obviously had different ideas about where to anchor and what places to visit, I started to consider my possibilities. On top, it started to rain heavily.

Rodney Bay is the bay where the ARC (The race to cross the Atlantic) ends up. It was over touristic, ugly and boring. The ongoing permanent rain, my thought about the situation and the fact that there was not much to see ends up in the situation that I only take one picture. It is this one:

Earth is flat
Earth is flat